2009 Stéphane et Vincent Perraud Muscadet de Sèvre-et-Maine Selection des Cognettes "Tradition"

Garagiste

• By Jon Rimmerman
  1/7/2011, (See more on Garagiste...)

  (COGNETTES Tradition Muscadet) $8.99 Dear Friends, What has my feathers aflutter this morning for $8.99? Muscadet. Specifically the “tradition” bottling from two of our favorite underground sources in Nantes – Domaine des Cognettes and Chateau Bordiniere. While I would be hard-pressed to turn down a bottle of mineral-tinged Muscadet from any of their vintages, something extra-special occurred for both of these producers in 2009 and my inner-sanctum tells me to stash a parcel of their wares away for a decade to see what happens. While not a blanket statement on the vintage by an means (I’ve found plenty of blurry and out of balance examples), the producers that harnessed 2009 correctly in Muscadet made nervous, muscular and glowing wine for the ages from rock-crusted, extract-rich material that was (if nothing else) uncanny. While the window appears to have remained wide open for current drinking of the top 2009’s, they also have a chance to age well beyond the normal “drink now” curve (although Pepiere and others are known to evolve for 15-20 years, that is not the norm around Nantes). In the vintage, the Melon de Bourgogne grapes were literally bursting with promise and the pith/acid/ripeness ratios were among the highest ever recorded (meaning, acids and mineral composition were elevated to lip-smacking levels along with the buffering extract, not the opposite as in 2003). For $8.99, I probably don’t need to go on but please note that both of the wines below are among the very finest price/value stars for wine of freshness and varietal/soil expression any taster is likely to come across. If you are into crushed stone and the refreshing wash of top Muscadet (plugged into a 220 volt outlet instead of 120), this set is VERY HIGHLY RECOMMENDED...especially for the ridiculously low price: 2009 Domaine des Cognettes Muscadet Sevre et Maine sur lie “Tradition” - This wine is downright fantastic for its level – enough said. I'm not sure there will be another Cognettes Tradition bottling made for quite a while that has the impact, poise, excitement and stenciled nature of this wonderful wine. Tough to have enough of this. In fact, you can’t have enough of this. One shipment only – they are out of 2009. 2009 Chateau de la Bordiniere Muscadet Sevre et Maine sur lie “Tradition” - The battle of “Tradition” continues with Bordiniere’s entrant – an electric light show of taut and full bore Melon that makes the taster laugh with the notion that it is under $9.00. Bordiniere had their finest vintage in history in 2009 and it’s not even close. With multiple medal winners and a portfolio that entices the taster to froth like a rabid dog, do we really need wine that is more costly than this to induce vinous enchantment? No. I'm not sure if the Bordiniere is better than the Cognettes but that’s not the point of this exercise – you should try both wines...with oysters, crab or even lobster (many prefer something more unctuous with lobster but give me a top Muscadet any day). I also enjoy Muscadet on its own, in place of Champagne, or as an aperitif on the summer terrace (for this reason, a few of my sommelier friends in Paris call Muscadet the poor-man’s Champagne but it deserves to be held in the same light regardless of cost discrepancy – Muscadet is just as important as Champagne and it should be looked upon as such). Both wines are directly from the winery cellar with perfect provenance – both should provide stellar drinking come this spring and summer (but don’t forget to stash some away as well). FIRST COME FIRST SERVED on both wines up to 24/each wine until we run out To order: niki@garagistewine.com This parcel is set to depart from France – it will arrive in late February (please check OARS for local pick up after March 1st). It will ship during the Spring shipping season. Out of state orders will be held for free under ideal storage conditions (56 degrees/70%humidity) until shipping is possible. Locals may pick up at their leisure. For current local pick up and arrival/ship information, please see your OARS link below (at the bottom of this offer) - don’t know how to access your OARS? Simply click the link and see your account. You can also paste the link into your browser. If you are having trouble with your link or your account, please contact: support@garagistewine.com NO SALES TO RETAILERS OR WHOLESALERS Thank you, Jon Rimmerman Garagiste Seattle, WA Loire9889 Loire9888 Click here to view the status of your orders in O.A.R.S.