Cheval Blanc and D'Yquem dinner with Pierre Lurton and Bernard Burtschy (Taberna del Alabardero, Washington D.C.): Beautiful example displaying intense yellow fruits, apricot, ginger, cremes brules, candied orange peel, sweeten tea and sweet spices. Exceptional concentration yet airy, decadent sweet yellow fruit driven palate impression, perfect amount of acidity and lovely long clean and seamless finish. It has reached the first stage of D’Yquem maturity and it will require another twenty to thirty years to reach the 67 like stage to gain more red fruit, precision and tertiary notes. A great wine that showed exceptional well.
WOTN at a great wine evening. the 1989 Huet Constance had more power, but the complexity was off the charts here - not just apricot and honey, also coconut, vanilla, pear and a hint of mint on the finish - amazing.
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(Yquem) There was also a 1990 Yquem, which someone called ‘better than 1967.’ Honey, coconut, pineapple and candle wax complemented its rich structure and super sexy, nutty, lush finish. It is a great Yquem, but I’ll drink ’67 over it any time, at least for a while (96+).
(Château d'Yquem) 375 ml bottle 1 - bright medium apricot color; nice honeyed, apricot ("apricot pastry with almond crust" per our sommelier) nose; yummy, focused, apricot and sweet orange palate with depth and good acidity; long finish 94+ pts.
375 ml bottle 2 - splash decanted first; more restrained nose at first than 1st bottle, that opened to spicy baked apricot and peach; tighter on palate than 1st bottle, apricot, apricot syrup and baked apricot; long finish 94 pts.
(Château d'Yquem) From 375 ml - light medium orange color; creme brulee, orange slice nose; remarkably drinkable (i.e., not as tight as some past bottles), orange, tangerine syrup, orange honey and creme brulee palate with luscious depth; long finish 95+ pts.
(Château d'Yquem) From 375 - Light medium orange color; creme brulee, coconut and confectioner's sugar nose; gorgeous creme brulee, tart orange, orange blossom and coconut palate with acidity; long finish 96+ pts.
(Chateau d'Yquem Sauternes) A hot, dry vintage. Four tries. A little pale compared to the other older vintages, a good sign, perhaps? But there is obvious volatile acidity on the nose, with delicate ripe white fruits behind it. This is surprising in view of the vintage, although with time the nose builds intensity to show orange and apricot notes. Another bottle assessed, however, was much cleaner with no VA. Full, rich, balanced, slightly oily palate. Peaches and apricots. Lovely, with elegance alongside the richness. This is very stylish once you get past the volatility, and there is potential here too. I suspect it would cellar for decades.