Dinner at Fearrington with Dick & Amy. Medium yellow in the glass, this was probably the best bottle ( so far ) from the case I bought several years back. Intense minerality. Complexity of age but still mixed with youthful tasting fruit. Ethereal. Elegant. A long finish beyond belief. A truly spectacular wine. 50+15+14.5+9.5+9.5=98.5
Loire Odyssey, Part V - I did it my Huët (Absinthe, Boat Quay): The oldest wine on the night. Not quite as good as some of its younger siblings on show, but still a really nice drop. It had a ridiculously good nose, full of freshly laundered sheets and wet wool aromas, a bit of caramel and spice, honeyed pears and red apples, with hints of tropical lychee, some lovely floral scents and just that strange suggestion of roasted green pepper at the very edges of bouquet. Wow. The palate was a bit reductive even after some time in the decanter, with a struck match note that came to the fore. However, it opened up nicely with a fresh burst of bright, citrus acidity and really pure flavours of lemons and Granny Smith apples. The acidity was so bright that the wine seemed a bit light at first as it rode upon a streal of citrussy notes, but that was an illusion - there was certainly a nice sense of depth and presence to the to this, with an undercurrant of fleshier white fruit wed to lanolin and earthy mineral notes stretching into a deliciously fresh finish. Lovely stuff. Still completely alive, if just perhaps lacking a bit of complexity and strength of conviction. I must say that it was a fantastic pairing with a veal dish in an Oloroso sauce though, which brought out a complementary savoury, white meat echo in the wine. However, in this case, it was the dish that propelled the wine to a higher level rather than the other way around. It is almost impossible to say with a wine of this age, but on this showing as compared to a bottle we had three years back, I would say that it has deproved rather than improved. It could well be bottle variation rather than it being past its prime however. Whatever the case, this was still very nice indeed.
Dinner at Stingaree, San Diego, CA. A great showing for this '57. While not noted as a great vintage for Vouvray in general or Huet in particular, this has always shown extremely well over the past 5 years showing that great vintages can not always be noted early in life. Dark gold in color, this is a medium bodied wine that starts off very delicate and then builds to a much more powerful wine on the back palate. Minerals, white peaches, beeswax, lemon drops and petrol all make an appearance here. Long on the finish where the lemon drop acidity is strongest. A beautiful bottle! 50+14+13+9+9 = 95
Medium gold in color, this wine showed great balance. Ready to drink, it had a fleshy consistency and a wonderful purity to it. Medium bodied and ethereal in nature it showed notes of lemon, lime and hay along with a nice spiciness and minerality. Long on the finish. 50+13+12+8.5+8.5 = 92
Dinner for a visiting Jonathan Loesberg. (Il Corso): From a release after the sale of the estate and topped off. Wow! This is showing beautifully and better than a bottle at the Huet Fete Part III. Developed, but it has that timeless Chenin freshness and vibrancy that seems to keep these wines immortal. It also is showing more youthfully than the '64 Moelleux that followed. Rich and complex with just a hint of sweetness, it shows mineral, shoe polish, quince and apricot flavors with a touch of oxidation. It actually wasn't that expressive on the nose, but if there's one lesson to be learned it's that don't be afraid to give old Huet lots of air. These wines will only get better as the hours go by. Solid A-.
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(Domaine Huet Vouvray Clos du Bourg Demi-Sec) In truth the penultimate wine, tasted just before the 1949. A really interesting nose here, intense with sweet fruit which has a rather pastille-like intensity today. Dense, characterful, sweet but also with savoury threads, rather beefy at times, with notes of peppery stock. Lovely broad palate, the savoury element coming through nicely here and more than matching that intense pastille-character. In fact it isn't really that sweet, rather it is rich, with potential sweetness. Rich, broad, balanced, great structure and acidity, this is holding up very well.
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