2004 Ontañón Rioja Reserva

i-WineReview.com

• Report 43: Rioja - A New Look, 6/1/2014, (See more on i-WineReview.com...)

  (Bodegas Otañón Reserva Rioja) Subscribe to see review text.

WineAlign

• By Michael Godel
  1/18/2014, (See more on WineAlign...)

  (Ontañón Reserva red) Login and sign up and see review text.

JancisRobinson.com

• By Jancis Robinson, MW
  10/3/2013, (See more on JancisRobinson.com...)

  (Ontañón, Reserva Rioja Red) Subscribe to see review text.

• By Josh Raynolds
  September/October 2011, IWC Issue #158, (See more on Vinous...)

  (Bodegas Ontanon Reserva Rioja) Login and sign up and see review text.

JancisRobinson.com

• By Jancis Robinson, MW
  11/9/2010, (See more on JancisRobinson.com...)

  (Ontañón, Reserva Rioja Red) Subscribe to see review text.

WineAlign

• By David Lawrason
  12/2/2009, (See more on WineAlign...)

  (Ontañón Reserva red) Login and sign up and see review text.

• By John Szabo, MS
  11/26/2009, (See more on WineAlign...)

  (Ontañón Reserva red) Login and sign up and see review text.

RJonWine.com

• By Richard Jennings
  5/2/2011, (See more on RJonWine.com...) 89 points

  (Ontañón Rioja Reserva) Deep berry, black fruit nose; deep berry, black fruit palate; medium-plus finish (95% Tempranillo, 5% Graciano)

Garagiste

• By Jon Rimmerman
  4/28/2010, (See more on Garagiste...)

  (ONTANON Reserva Rioja) 2004 Rioja Reserva Dear Friends, With the recent spotlight on Spain (and commentary on how strong the 2004 Rioja Reserva's are) I thought it appropriate to introduce you to one of the very best values in Rioja: Ontanon's wonderful example of 2004 Reserva that can hold its own among far more expensive competition. We profiled this winery last week (see offer below for background info) and the 2004 Reserva takes the Crianza to a more noble level. Highly allocated and from their very best fruit, the Reserva is aged for the legal minimum (24 months in barrel) and it's a beautiful example of the Ontanon style - I predict this wine will be among the most admired offers of the season. The Reserva combines 95% high-altitude Tempranillo and 5% indigenous Graciano with a subtle dusting of modernity. It has a wonderful sense of terroir that captures an image of deep, mineral-rich, unforced extract - nothing out of place or obtuse in any way. What sets this winery apart is their ability to harness a special piece of land in a medium-weight, regal style that is not afraid to stand up for what it believes in: a new definition of Rioja that finds just as much solace in today as it does in yesterday (see original offer below for further rambling on this subject). The ultimate compliment to Ontanon is their local audience - just as many from the old guard as the new. The 2004 Reserva is Ontanon's best foot forward and it is still priced at an entry level. With an even stronger Bordelaise backbone than the Crianza, this wine is built from the ground up - it brims with natural tannin and pure fruit that is just darn good to drink. With an alcohol level at barely 13%, this wine acts as a new pace car for the Rioja race. Under $20 for 2004 Rioja Reserva of this quality? If they say so. VERY HIGHLY RECOMMENDED for top value and an enticing blend of old and new - a terrific wine that should be tasted by fans of Pauillac and St. Estephe as well as the more restrained renditions of Priorat. Think La Rioja Alta meets Bard College and it will be something like Ontanon - on the one hand rambling/boisterous art culture and on the other, finely detailed elegance. This parcel is directly from the winery cellar with perfect provenance (it is very hard to find outside of Spain): 2004 Ontanon Rioja Reserva Thank you, Jon Rimmerman Garagiste Seattle, WA Spain2399 ******************************* (original 2007 Crianza offer for background on the winery): Ontanon Dear Friends, I've been waiting for a producer like this for a long time, specifically, a Rioja entity that defines a modern sense of the category with traditional means - one that places fruit and terroir over new oak and flash but keeps the fruit intensity dialed up to 11. In my travels and trials, there are producers that defy explanation - their wine just feels right when you taste it and you can't quite figure out why? In the case of Ontanon (woman owned and operated), every wine they produce feels right. All of them, regardless of Reserva or Crianza, tastes like a spirited (I mean energetic not alcoholic) step forward toward merging yesteryear with today. Their entire portfolio tastes like nothing was done to it except a gentle crushing and natural vinification and each wine has a self-assured quality without forcing a thing. They glorify their high-altitude terroir but also nod toward a remarkable sense of modernity in mouthfeel that gives them the edge over 90% of their compatriots in the region. Don't get me wrong, I'm a staunch supporter of the super-traditional in Spain (Tondonia et al) but there is room for a new style that combines the ethos and passion of Tondonia with a certain sense of bravado and here-and-now that I welcome in 2010. Ontanon reaches that goal with aplomb and they are truly one of the more exciting sources from Rioja I've come across in years. From a top vintage that favored their exposition, the 2007 Crianza is 90% Tempranillo and 10% Garnacha (Grenache). The old-vines for this wine are grown at high elevation on the eastern slopes of the mountains in southeastern Rioja and they need every bit of the Spanish summer to ripen fully (the opposite of an area like Toro where there is almost too much sun). This is a unique microclimate with cold nights and torrid days and the purity of the soils are closely represented in the wine itself (more like Priorat than what we may imagine as Rioja). With a complex structure and depth of character uncommon at this price-point, Ontanon Crianza is subtle and elegant but also powerful and dense with a natural fruit and mineral extract that is just not the norm in this region. Think 2005 Chinon meets low-alcohol Priorat and you will be close. Whatever it is, it's good. REALLY good. The best news is that it will not take a fortune to get acquainted with this winery - their 2007 Crianza is an enviable result at this price. To be labeled Crianza, the wine must spend one year in oak but it's the type of oak and the toast levels that give Ontanon the ability to stand out. Yes, they give their Crianza the Rioja mandated time in cooperage but they use neutral toast levels that impart little if any quality to the wine itself. What you have is a powerful but even keeled (12.5-13.0% alcohol) expression of its vintage and mountainside with a precision and balance to the dark fruit and soil tone that appears to have more in common with St. Estephe than the typical round and red fruit/lilting quality of Rioja. Very long on the palate, the natural sense of fruit expression deepens with air and it continues to perform at a high level for 2-3 days in an open bottle. I've been touting quite a few bargain wines lately, but this ranks right up there as one of the finest European price/value stars in grilled NY steak-worthy red wines of the season. If it means anything, I usually spit all the wine I taste but I drank this entire bottle over three nights as I didn't want to part with it. VERY HIGHLY RECOMMENDED for overall integrity and showcase of mineral imbued fruit in a modern package that is neither off-putting or obtrusive. ONE SHIPMENT ONLY directly from the winey cellar with perfect provenance VERY HARD TO FIND in the US 2007 Ontanon Rioja "Crianza" - SOLD OUT