A tremendous Champagne - this knocked my socks off. It had such a lovely deep nose, full of white fruit, with white chocolate and bread and yeast and a tiny hint of oxidative white meat notes, all topped-off with a little spice and mineral and a subtle nutty hint. The palate was, in every way, complete. There was a nice creamy depth to the wine, but this was wed to a laser-like precision, with lively acidity and mouthfilling stream of super-fine mousse lending it a great sense of clarity and focus as it unfolded in lovely clean notes of white fruit - apples and pears - chased by juicy citrus nuances, all filling the mouth with lovely bright flavours. I found this to be a study in contrasts: superb depth wed to wonderful transperancy, all very complete, compact, and wonderfully integrated. A long, powerful finish then brought the wine to a delightful end, with a rapier-like thrust of white fruit and citrus zest flecked by little suggestions of minerality. A superb Champange with tons packed into this. Yet, unlike so many 2002s, this needs years to unfurl. I would love to try it again in say 2020-2025.
Friday Night Double Blind Mondo $100+ (Bin 75): Greenish straw with fine bead; some vanilla, lees though not biscuit, fuller and fatter on the nose, lemon curd, coffee, green apple, almond paste; heavier on the palate, nice density, froth, good focus, doesn't seem like BdB, almost a smoky minerality, green apple on long finish; very noble, not as complete as a Krug but plenty of polish like it.
Vivid and young. Dry and flavorful champagne which tastes of citrus fruits (grape fruit?), apples and minerals. It's a win-win wine: pop it now and you won't be disappointed, wait and you'll be rewarded. It will age gracefully.
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