2009 Ad Libitum (Juan Carlos Sancha) Tempranillo Blanco Rioja Blanco

Garagiste

• By Jon Rimmerman
  5/25/2010, (See more on Garagiste...)

  (AD LIBITUM Tempranillo Bianca) UPDATE: 2009 Burgundy Most of you know I'm tough to impress - especially from the establishment (I am far more likely to be impressed by a world-beating $10 wine from Gaillac than another "very good to excellent" bottle of $100 Bordeaux - shouldn't the wine be "very good to excellent" for $100?). With that, I gingerly utter this statement regarding a vintage with a perceived predisposition toward the flamboyant and over-ripe... 2009 Burgundy may be worth the hype. No, we have nothing to offer and there is no marketing reason for making this statement (we hardly trade in any Burgundy as it is) but the more and more samples I try (both red and white) the more impressed I am. It's a different vintage than say, 2005, but it may have even more magical appeal for those of you looking for that genie-in-a-bottle moment. What has impressed me about the vintage is the very high level of both white and red wine and there are examples of 2009 white Burgundy that will quite literally blow your doors off (in a good way). They are not over-ripe, high in alcohol or anything of the sort (although there are certainly examples in this style, much like 2003). The majority of the top wines have penetrating definition, fabulous acidity and length that is almost astounding for the level (villages, 1er or Grand Cru)...and that's just the white wine. The reds can be equally as impressive but many do not have the tannic depth of 2005 - they are more exotic and forward but also have excellent structure. While the Pinot Noir varietal shines at this stage (rather than acute site-place reflection) you do have very good transparency of terroir, even at the villages level. If I must search for a comparison vintage, an elevated, deeper 1999 is a good mach with even more reflection of vineyard site. So, somewhere between 1999 and 2002 with a dash of 1990 (without the blowsy predilection). As far as 1990 comparisons are concerned, many of the vineyards are 20 years older and, of even more importance, many have been converted to organic/BIO viticulture over the last two decades and the results compared to a vintage like 1990 are striking indeed. In fact, 2009 in Burgundy may end up as a case study of why organic conversion matters so greatly to wine production. Taste the wines for yourself and you will see what I mean. Of course, all of the above is a gross generalization and it does not apply to every wine but there is certainly much to look forward to if you are a fan of the Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. Let's leave it at that for now as the wines have another 6-12 months of elevage to contend with but I am keeping my fingers crossed... Pricing? It's not going to be cheap...or is it? If the Euro continues to drop or if it hovers in the 1.25 range, even though the prices have or will be increased across the board for 2009's, they may end up cheaper than the 2005's. If you see high prices, they are most likely not coming from the winery but from profit taking on our side of the pond. Keep in mind when planning for next year's purchases that 2009 may actually be a deal (I can't believe I'm saying that) and the luck of the exchange rate may have a lot to do with it. Now, if we could only get the volcano to stop spewing ash... Also, don't forget about 2008 - just as in Bordeaux, there are some terrific examples of finely detailed, filigreed red and white wine that are arguably more true to their roots than 2005 or even 2009 (although, the whites are a tad fatter than their more transparent 2007 counterparts). There should be some terrific deals out there on 2008's but it's a mid-term drinking vintage, rather than a long-term investment vintage. If you are just getting to know Burgundy or, if you are clutching to the soul of a place that has a reputation for disappointment at a high price, the 2008 wines are a poster child for a style of Pinot Noir that can only be produced along this very narrow strip of land south of Dijon. Love it or leave it, 2008 will give you a blueprint on where to begin your base camp. - Jon Rimmerman ********************** Bizarre Dear Friends, The word "bizarre" has many connotations, from the exotic to the odd. Whether strange or mystical, the bizarre does get noticed (even for a moment) and the designated party or product that is deemed bizarre is often held to a different standard than something designated as "typical". If you want to use the word in conjunction with Rioja, this wine most certainly applies... It is also unique. Made from 100% Tempranillo Blanco (one of the only examples of its kind in Europe - maybe the only one?), this is an important new wine that needs to be experienced as a reference point for white wine production. To make a very long story (somewhat) short, 20 years ago a vine shoot and bunch of grapes were noticed in an old vineyard in Murillo de Rio Leza. That vine was Tempranillo - the typical red variety. While all well and good, the vine shoot didn't produce red grapes, they were white. Fast forward 20 years and Juan Carlos Sancha has in his hands a direct descendent of that original vine shoot - it is the wine we offer today. A white wine that is actually red. As far as anyone knows, that natural mutation was never witnessed again but it was not only worth capturing and studying, it was worth growing. Why? Juan Carlos has made his life's work studying the ancient varietals of Spain and particularly Rioja. Near the turn of the last century (circa 1900), there were 44 varietals used in Rioja, now there are 7. Armed with a master's degree in varietals and oenology, he was certain that bizarre vine shoot and "white" version of Tempranillo could (and would) produce a wine with a character all its own - one that would put Spain on the map for age-worthy white wine. Yes, there are classic examples of white wine from Lopez de Heredia and others that can last for decades but this was a goal of a different sort - more on par with the best of Corton. A lofty goal indeed but he is on to something and the word is spreading much faster than he ever intended. If you think about it, the light bodied, peach and tobacco infused red wine that Tempranillo produces could pass for a white wine (with your eyes closed). With his knowledge of this new white varietal, Juan Carlos set out to start his own domaine that would focus on the grape. While he originally intended to grow the grapes for others to use, in the end, he had to start his own winery in response to doors slammed in his face. Few would listen to his babble over a mythical bunch of albino grapes and ever fewer thought he could pull it off (boy were they wrong but a lot of people thought the iPhone would be a flop as well). In 2007, after much prodding, proving and pounding the pavement (cobbles) the Consejo Regulador of Rioja accepted his varietal as an official grape from the Rioja D.O...and Juan Carlos was the only one that had it. You can do the supply and demand math but, when you are the only one with something (anything for that matter), it creates its own unique supply/demand flow chart that has a tendency to put the seller in a nice position. In this case, Juan Carlos could charge $50 or more for this wine (there is no competitor and he only makes 500-700 cases) but he wants everyone, in every wine drinking country to taste it - thus $16+ instead (not sure how he is going to divide 500 cases among everyone in the wine-drinking world but that's an equation for another time?). With official D.O. recognition, 2008 marked the first wine produced from this grape "Tempranillo Blanco" and the accolades have had a constant flow ever since. We could have started our exploration with the 2008 but why not head straight to the top - 2009. The 2009 Ad Libitum ("as desired" or "at one's pleasure" abbreviated to "ad lib" by the English speaking world) is a mammoth white wine with a soaring bouquet of the unusual and unexpected. It is without a doubt a game-changing wine of significance for Iberia. Fabulous, glycerol rich texture meshed with a cornucopia of freshly crushed spices, dried fruits, tinges of Partaga, orange, nectarine and pear skins, the 2009 has terrific staying power on the palate and an electric sense of tension and verve framed by red-wine like tannins - yes, I said tannins. This is almost a red wine that drinks like a white wine, I mean a white wine that drinks like a red wine - indeed, it's both. I have no idea how long it will age or when it will enter a peak drinking window but I would guess that 6-12 months in bottle would serve it quite well and it will surely last for 3-6 years and possible longer (simply due to the acid/extract ratio). An experiment that would be well worth placing in the back of your cellar but make sure to try one now as well. A major discovery and an exciting/important new wine for Iberia and beyond. VERY HIGHLY RECOMMENDED for rarity and intrinsic importance to the history of grape varietals and their vinous results. It's also downright bizarre - in the best way of course. ONE SHIPMENT ONLY directly from the winery cellar in Rioja with perfect provenance: 2009 Rioja "Ad Libitum" Tempranillo (blanco) (This wine is not exported to the US) Thank you, Jon Rimmerman Garagiste Seattle, WA Spain3489