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  • By Chris Kissack
    December 2012, (See more on Winedoctor...) 17.5 points

    (NV Cayetano del Pino Palo Cortado) The wine in question, a Palo Cortado, has an average age of approximately twelve years, and is bottled under screwcap (don't let that put you off). It has a gloriously toasty-golden hue in the glass. Aromatically it offers notes of toasted almond, tinged with vanilla and with a coffee and caramel harmony to it. Like the best palo cortados it shows a very silky substance (I hope with my limited experience I can say this - it has long seemed to me a distinguishing feature of the style) on the start of the palate, before revealing more substance and weight in the middle, and then a really appealing grip and a dry, lip-smacking finish. There are notes of almond and hazelnut, all with that toasty overlay, but most importantly a very harmonious integration of structure and flavour. And a long, long finish. Delightfully elegant and impressive. And, like so many of these wines, just amazing value for money.

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