Still a puppy. This barely hints at its ten years of age in colour being relatively pale lemon. Nose opens out with ginger and jasmine before touches of white pepper and candied peels come forward. The palate is a model of equilibrium and grace unfolding slowly over several hours. There is a great subtlety at work here which may mean this wine does not immediately get the attention it deserves. It has no over the top oily texture nor heady oak influence but leaves an imprint on the mind that is hard to resist. Where this will go in another ten years I dearly hope to know.
Dinner with Aldo Vacca: An intriguing nose I could not place of greengage, cheeses and other lactic aromas and some minerals. The bouquet was a little reduced and suggested some evolution. On the palate this was clearly a serious wine, waxy, viscous, powerful and rich with excellent body and mid palate fruit weight. The flavours profile was very complex, including greengages, lemon custard, clotted cream, minerals and honey, again showing some development. Real length, it broadened considerably on the back palate. I don't have much experience with this type of wine but understand it has years of development to come. (Thanks very much Andrew S, an intriguing wine).
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(Domaine de Chevalier Blanc Pessac-Léognan) As with last years sample of the 2003 this is quite closed, showing little more than a faint crispness. The palate clearly shows that this is built for the cellar; balanced, elegantly textured, sappy but reserved, vaguely nettly through the midpalate but rounding out with a flourish of flavour on the finish. Potentially very good indeed.
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