This was best on night 3, so it seems it needs time and air. PnP as Nth bottle of the night with a group, but only drank 1+ glass then capped. Second night it seemed disjointed with a medicinal nose with menthol, mint, and eucalyptus, but a dark core showing blueberry and some spice (clove). Capped and set aside. On the third night is was drinking very well with the nose in balance showing hints of the former elements along with smoke and bacon. Smooth, full fruit core of dark fruits, but not flabby. Very nice, just give it time.
Reminds me of vintage Michael Jordan. Give it some air...and wach it soar. Beautiful complex nose draws you in to the meaty mystery. Just the right amount of oak. This wine sings from beginning to end, while holding your interest. This is just a sick QPR. Down to 1 left and wishing I had another 6-pack.
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Spain produces wine that Jorge Ordonez knows nothing about.
Spain needs to be treated like Italy or any other top wine producing region without preconception.
Spain produces wine of character that is more than oak-juice and 16% alcohol.
Spain has had enough of the cynicism and looks forward to proving the worth of their terroir on the big stage (and I'm not talking about a handful of obvious entrants such as Vega Sicilia and Lopez de Heredia).
Therefore, will the real Spain please stand up?
...enter Bodega Cerron.
From indigenous Cencibel with parts Petit Verdot and Cabernet, this wine represents the synthesis of Spanish wine culture as it has matured over the past 10-15 years. From new kid on the block to fragmented and misunderstood, Spain of 2011 is as exciting a vinous region as exists in the world. From experience comes knowledge and most of the best young producers in Spain want nothing to do with the carnival show that developed over the last decade personified by creations such as Termanthia (and much of Toro, not for lack of brilliant material). The new Spain embraces its climate but wishes to express more than just massive/raisined/oaked monsters – the new Spain wishes to express soul (along with a nicely balanced does of extract, material and freshness).
Bodega Cerron is the poster-child for this new generation of BIO/organic and natural producers that have as much in common with Saumur and St. Joseph as they do Rioja. What sets them apart from their northern French counterparts is sun – lots of it – and vines that are used to the conditions. Why fight a good thing when so many others would fight for the natural sunshine and overall climate that much of inland Spain has in two out of every three years? In addition, as much as it is perceived to be a dirty word, natural/BIO wine does not have to be tank/cement/amphorae to be “real” - in fact, that entire concept is as tiring as the would-be naysayers that force a no-oak agenda upon all of us. When properly done, natural wine can be raised in oak (old and/or new) and the result is as lovely as anything from a clay pot. If the material is there, the artistry of the vineyard and of the winery can (and do) coexist with wood.
Which brings us to Bodega Cerron.
Bodega Cerron is located in the emerging Tierra di Castilla district near Madrid. Their clients are knowledgeable patrons from the Capital and the standards they’ve set are very high (this winery could play at RN74 or Terroir – usually, it’s one or the other). Cerron’s top wine is a $13+ red with a distinct front, middle and end – it is a mini-marvel of a beverage that will please those looking for a mouthful of fruit but also those that yearn for soil and mineral tone. Yes, there is wood but the wine's result is a natural process of maturation, not of an attempt to slug us over the head with a caramel-tinged 2 x 4.
VERY HIGHLY RECOMMENDED – the 2009 Cerron was one or the highest rated Spanish wines at the big taste-off last summer and it continues to be just as good circa January 26th, 2011 (I enjoyed it last night but it is really singing tonight after 24 hours of air).
This parcel is directly from the winery cellar with perfect provenance:
2009 Bodega Cerron (Tierra de Castilla) - (compare at $18-22+)
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Jon Rimmerman Garagiste Seattle, WA
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