2008 Cantina Rigatteri Alghero Graffiante

Garagiste

• By Jon Rimmerman
  3/1/2011, (See more on Garagiste...)

  (RIGATTERI Graffiante) Gold Rush Dear Friends, The next big thing? Maybe not in a commercial sense but, to your palate? That’s an entirely different story. Our love of Corsica and Sardinia is well documented – both islands remain a stronghold of mid-20th century culture and idealism (two of the last bastions left in western Europe) with few, if any, agendas. On both Corsica and Sardinia, life is removed from the mainland by more than just a body or water – it has been left to fend for itself for decades (centuries?) and that has bred a culture unique to both islands. In a wine sense, it can be argued that both places represent the most exciting, unadulterated and expressive examples from either country – taken as a whole, it’s as though the renegade attitude and BIO diversity of the Loire were treated to an exemplary climate and a handful of mostly unknown indigenous (ancient) varietals with far more exotic potential and intrigue than the majority of Bordeaux or Burgundian safe bets. On Corsica and Sardinia, it is the wild west and the gold rush has just begun... We start our 2011 exploration of this island two-step with a winery that already ranks as one of Sardinia’s most promising. Along with Dettori, the exquisite gems of Rigatteri have the greatest chance to define the possibilities of this island – endless and captivating. Set in one of Europe’s most beautiful enclaves, the Isola dei Nuraghi appellation means turquoise sea, pristine beaches and a rocky/mountain capped landscape that begs you to come and stay for a while. Oh yeah, I haven't even mentioned the food – this is Italy after all (I can still taste the piquant, fresh cheese...incredible). In a similar fashion to Corsica, the northern and southern regions of Sardinia are distinct and separate form one another. The north is more fashionable (the same in Corsica), the south more rugged and weathered. Rigatteri lies at the very southern tip of Sardinia and there’s nothing fashionable about their wine or their intent – every bottle contains their landscape and heritage – nothing more. With old vines (some up to 80 yrs) set in a red/brown earth rich in untapped minerality – this is an awe-inspiring region that has only touched the surface of what could be. Rigatteri’s top red wine is what we offer today, the Graffiante – an homage to their father and grandfather who ripped and turned the earth inch by inch to plant a great portion of this vineyard in the 1930’s: “This wine is dedicated to our father with determination and tenacity which enabled us to produce the best effort from his ancestors. He took from the land which was already scraped and ploughed, all the benefit from the land of Sardinia, not injuring it, but making it aggressive and "Graffiante" almost rubbing and handling it with love, beyond all imagination. The colour of the wine is an intense ruby red and bright, with large purple fields. The aromatic sensations are very intense, broad and continuous with shades of red fruit. The characteristics have a powerful, concentrated, very thick, well-structured, warm and enveloping with a slight hint of vines in bloom. The wine shows a very full taste, a taste of great importance, without gleaning. Produced with different types of red grapes from the native land Alghero including Cagnulari. The must ferments for 8-12 days with the grape skin still intact, and then together with selected (wild) yeasts, his character is completed by an aging of about 10 months in stainless steel tanks, which after assembly, continues into the bottle. Immediate and pleasant to drink, the biting red gradually improves with aging. It compliments main courses such as game birds, roasted and braised meats, aged cheeses and spicy dishes. Must be served at 18°C and left resting for 30 minutes before you initially pour” The Graffiante is a meditative example, produced without any influence of wood, oak, manipulation or other – it is vinified in traditional tanks and only the influence of the vineyard, growing season and resulting grapes are joined by their own harmonic conversion. In other words, this is what we mean by terroir – it is what you sip and nothing else. In addition to their own accurate TN above, I would add a wonderful dimension of dried tobacco and resin mixed with red fruit that is reminiscent of southern Corsican wines. Unlike Dettori (where alcohol can eclipse 17%), Rigatteri routinely tops out at only 13.8-14.5% (which is low by southern standards) - this gives their wine a masculine/feminine quality that is beguiling and drinkable – it is also a top match for cuisine. Rigatteri produces each bottle of wine by hand – there is very little to go around. No scores, no accolades – just honesty and integrity and the hope that their labor of love brings you the same sense of wonder that it does to them. This parcel is directly from the winery cellar with perfect provenance: 2008 Rigatteri “Graffiante” (Isola dei Nuraghi) - EXTREMELY LIMITED (yes, this is their top wine...and it’s still only ) (as a side note, the area of Isola dei Nuraghi and its handful of top wineries reminds me of the pre-Grateful Palate undiscovered Australian treasure trove – not stylistically, as Sardinia has a unique persona that has nothing to do with Shiraz, but more in an undervalued/sitting-on-a-pot-of-gold sense – remember when 1992 Veritas Hanisch was $12 or Greenock Creek Creek Block was $14? Keep that in mind...) Please give us your maximum number up to 12/person and we will allocate accordingly To order: niki@garagistewine.com This parcel is set to depart from Alghero – it will arrive in late April (please check OARS for local pick up after April 20th). It will ship during the Spring shipping season (weather permitting) or we will hold it for the fall season. Out of state orders will be held for free under ideal storage conditions (56 degrees/70%humidity) until shipping is possible. Locals may pick up at their leisure. For current local pick up and arrival/ship information, please see your OARS link below (at the bottom of this offer) - don’t know how to access your OARS? Simply click the link and see your account. You can also paste the link into your browser. If you are having trouble with your link or your account, please contact: support@garagistewine.com NO SALES TO RETAILERS OR WHOLESALERS Thank you, Jon Rimmerman Garagiste Seattle, WA Click here to view the status of your orders in O.A.R.S.