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Community Tasting Notes (7) Avg Score: 89.6 points

  • German rieslings: Very interesting, powerful nose of pills, pharmacy, cold fruits, some propane, later intense gasoline. On the palate it was quite light, well balanced, racy, long but elegant finish. Powerful, but unobtrusive wine. Excellent.

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  • Drinks at KSP's (Palm Road): Good, but this is another example of why 2010 German Rieslings need patience. It had the sweet thickness of a Rheingau Spatlese and a the bracing acidity of a cool-year Saar. The nose, while really quite pretty, could have belonged to an Auslese, with really sweet honeyed notes of apricots and peaches topped off by just a hint of smoky mineral. The palate was, thankfully, just a little more subdued. It was very sweet and rich for a Kabinett, with a thick, almost creamy texture to it, but the flavours were more consistent with the Mosel at least, with juicy lemons and sweet apples at the fore, and a nice inseam of mineral sewn through it. What really kept the wine going though was a big beam of bright, bracing acidity that absolutely cut through any sweetness the wine had and caused the mouth to water nicely. There is certainly the quality to make a real solid Riesling here but, at the moment at least, the wine is rather less than the sum of its parts, with the fruit and the acidity really needing time to mellow and integrate further. There is enough here to make it pleasurable even now, but it really does deserve time in the cellar - try 4-5 years at the very least. In the meantime, the less impressive 2011 Kabinetts are actually giving more pleasure.

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  • Lunch at Dezato (Dezato, Jalan Telok): This was very enjoyable - even more so than the last bottle I thought. It had a really nice nose for one so young, with bits of chalk and earth underlying sweet scents of peach and nectarines, some flowers, and just a drop of petrol. Again, I found the palate rather sweet for a Kabinett, with juicy flavours of peach and nectarine on the attack, but it was also beautifully balanced by bright, fresh acidity and flinty minerally that cut through the luscious stone-fruited attack to emerge in a superbly cut finish. In word, this was balanced, superbly s in fact. There was also a good sense of grip and extract at the back-end, where more citrus notes of sweet lemon and grapefruit played alongside a firm underlayer of chalky mineral. Still very young, but this was a nice refreshing drink on a warm day, and a lovely pairing with sashimi. With a few more years under its belt, it should get even better.

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  • Refreshing citrus. Not very expressive on the nose. Well balanced, nice wine.

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  • Dinner with Monthly Group at Jing (Jing, One Fullerton): Yet another Spatlese-like Kabinett, not usually my favourite thing, but this was actually really nice. I paticularly liked the nose - quite open for something so young, it showed sweet, ripe scents of peach, nectarines, sweet lemons and custard apples on a slightly earthy, minerally background. A bit of sulphur in there, but it was the honeyed fruit tones that stood out. For all the sweetness suggested on the nose though, it was zippy 2010 acidity that marked the attack, opening with a lovelly bright burst of citrus fruit - lemons and pink grapefruit I thought - with a nice backdrop of slatey minerality. There was Spatlese substance and power underneath all that, but this was nevertheless brilliantly balanced and very delicious, with lovely definition and focus all the way into a nice longish finish. While too young and primary to be a great wine, it was still very yummy with a succession of Chinese food on the day.

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  • By Joel B. Payne
    January/February 2012, IWC Issue #160, (See more on Vinous...)

    (Von Schubert - Maximin Grunhauser Maximin Grunhauser Abtsberg Riesling Kabinett) Subscribe to see review text.

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