Exactly the same impression as last year, which is to say sound but far from great. This has the raspy, awkward, acidic character of so many '95 Burgundy. Tart cherry (griottes), minerality but just not the silkiness of fruit or texture that one expects from a Grand Cru level wine. After seeing it a few times, I don't think that this one will ever really wow.
Surprisingly even, deep ruby without any lightening. Briary nose with mashed, tart red fruit. Paradoxically full bodied yet providing little textural allure due to its high acidity which veers in the direction of cranberry. I love Pinot acidity, but this is frankly tart and ungenerous feeling. Lots of material, but the balance and charm are lacking. It wouldn't hurt to hold onto bottles for 5 more years (insofar it hasn't really changed that much over the past 4 years), but will it help?
French-No Duds Here (Nopa, San Francisco): Deep and primary looking. Beautiful floral and sour cherry notes that reminded me of Griottes. Perhaps a bit less interesting in the mouth; one very savvy taster at the table accused it of being rather modern in style and lacking soul. I don't begrudge it its cleanness and mainly think that the nose is ahead of the palate and that it is just too young at present.
Goodbye 2008 ("Chez P&G", San Francisco): Very young deep ruby. Iron and soil tones lead, then redder cherry fruit which expands nicely over time. Medium weight, again seems to flesh out as it sits open. Fairly long and tannic, but this is an excellent '95 that has more than enough fruit and stuffing to avoid coming across as burly or overly tannic like so many other wines from this vintage do. Should last very well.
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