Morey-St Denis Grand Cru Dinner (Imperial Treasure Super Peking Duck, Paragon): Tight when first opened, this opened up nicely with time. The nose showed deep notes of cream and chalk and mineral lining a centre of white fruited aromas. Just a touch of honey and spice blooming at the edges of the bouquet hinted at a bit of age. The palate had powerful core that packed a real punch, but it was certainly tightly wound, with its creamily textured white-fruit flavours coiled around a beam of fresh, lemony acidity and fine minerality that threaded its way into a big, powerful finish flushed with a bit of spice, some nutty accents and a touch of ripe heat. With time, a lot of sweet lemony flavours came out as well. This had great length and depth, with just a touch of something bittersweet right at the end. All in all, a bit on the big, weighty side, as would be expected for Batard, but this was quite nicely pulled together with the juicy freshness of the vintage. A pretty good wine, and it will probably benefit from a few more years in bottle too.
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