1996 / 1999 / 2001 Burgundy Dinner (Yan, National Gallery, Singapore): Excellent. A baby DRC, bought in barrel by Potel, if rumours are to be believed. Very serendipitously, we had two bottles of the same wine, both brought blind, on the same night. One had been decanted for a couple of hours before serving, while the other was popped and poured. The later was perhaps rather fresher and tighter, but otherwise both were strikingly similar. We had really lovely noses on both bottles, with melting aromas of cherries and dark berries, meat and leather, a little smoke, a little mineral, and then classic Vosne notes of pepper and wood spice, all these shaded with just a touch of funky soy and some umami notes. A deep and beautiful bouquet. The wines also had a lovely feel in the mouth, with a very masculine, sinewy structure of fine tannins and lovely integrated acidity framing lush but somehow still subtle flavours of dark cherries, meat and mineral. There was a lovely creamy depth to the wines, with a lushness that made them seem almost Grand Cru, but at the same time also a really lovely clarity and a sense of effortless refinement –not words I would normally associate with other Potel bottlings. Great finish too, with some deeply integrated minerality emerging at the end. Both bottles came across as really complete wines. Very good indeed, and some way away from peak too. I would love to try this again in 3-4 years.
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