Red Burgundy tasting @ (Rotterdam, Netherlands): Every now and then it is good to sample a wine with a medium-minus intense garnet core, if only to remind oneself of what that looks like. The nose is quite pronounced and initially shows not very vinous notes of overripe raw-milk Camembert; even Roquefort. Gradually, this morphs to mahogany, old leather and amazingly enough sweet red fruits. There is some life left in this geezer yet. It’s medium bodied and its medium-plus acidity even has some nice old-wine finesse to it. While the light tannins are somewhat exposed due to slightly failing expression of mid-palate fruit, some raspberry is still present. Furthermore, complex medium-plus intense flavours of leather and peat get some lift from iodine minerality. The finish initially ups the intensity somewhat and takes 20 seconds to slowly fade.While undeniably getting somewhat long in the teeth, this was an impressive showing for a 25 year-old village from an abysmal vintage. I think 87 points are wholly deserved, with the caveat that this is not for everyone; the hedonistically inclined needn’t bother ................. TN Mike de Lange..
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