Peter Jakob Kühn, Rheingau (Macis restaurant, Leipzig): Nobody at our table managed to detect anything other than sweet winey-ness and a touch of SO2 on the nose. Broad, very mineral-stoney-bitter entry, thick and oily it is, but the mid-palate resembles a kind of vacuum where exuberence, fruit, botrytis, acidity, excitement... might have been, but alas weren't. This ought to have opened up a bit by now - will it ever do so? 8% alc. 59€/37,5cl retail. 83P(?)
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