Very curious wine, this. Does not have typical vibrancy and "airy-ness" of a Santenots and that delicate floral and perfumed note seems to be missing. In fact, this is quite dense for a Santenots, in my view. Darker in color. Still young. Mushroom, loam and blue fruit. Nice to drink but out of character, which seems to be reflected in conflicting professional reviews.
Wineberserkers Eat Duck in Midtown (Peking Duck House (Midtown), NYC): Blood, with the barest edge of bricking. Once some initial (strong) funk blew off, the nose was very meaty, bloody; black cherry juice and blood spilled over dry stones in a vineyard battle; then, suddenly, dried roses; overall a beautiful bouquet but primary. The palate is the same as the nose, very primary. Killer balance, tannin in excellent control. Terrific, tannic length. Yum. Try in ~5 years.
From 75cl, perfect cork. Opened 1 hour. Simple, pleasantly tart redcurrant-style Burgundy in a medium-bodied style. Tannins quite fine, but not fully resolved. Dry finish. No complexity, depth or secondary charcteristics identifiable to us. We enjoyed drinking this young, fresh wine (accompanying a wonderful free-range chicken), but did feel it to be about 40% overpriced at the 50 EUR we paid, and ludicrously overvalued at current auction prices. True Believers will surely wait patiently for the appearence of the Holy Grail, but I'm not sad that this was my last bottle, and won't be rebuying. 88-(89)?P
BORGOGNA 1999 (RISTORANTE GATTO NERO TORINO): Degustato alla cieca. Di non facile caratterizzazione, molto denso, viola inchiostro più da Barbera che da Pinot, in bocca è ancora quasi primario, materico e di grande freschezza balsamica. Molta classe e pregevole fattura, buonissimo, ricorda un grande Barbaresco. Da attendere dieci anni per vedere se la terziarizzazione porterà complessità nuova.
Given comments here decanted this an hour or so before tasting. Deep ruby, intense Pinot nose, but clearly still pretty clenched on the palate. This was more similar to an 06 Aubert Reuling Pinot served later in the evening to some of the other Burgundies (98 Hudelot-Noellat RSV, 99 Faiveley Clos de Beze) which preceded it. This is still intense and very primary at age 15; needs at least another 5 or 10 years if it will ever show some secondary complexity.
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(Domaine des Comtes Lafon Volnay 1er Cru Santenots-Du-Milieu) Dark cherry red color; deep tart red fruit, raspberry, baked cherry nose; big, tart cherry, solid, but a little extracted; medium-plus finish (close 2nd for WOTF)
(Comtes Lafon Volnay Santenots-du Milieu) Deep colour and still very-much cherry-red. The nose starts very tight, slowly adding weight to provide primary cherry fruit with a faint edge of oak toast. A couple of hours after opening there is a very pleasant and truly Volnay impression. Crushing intensity and powerful, velvety, tannins that are 90% covered by the fruit. Good acidity. This is a higher-toned, less obviously sweet rendition of Volnay that, despite it's concentration, is a little less 'burly' than most others, still some oak too. An hour after opening, there's even an element of friendliness! Very good length, though not quite in the vein of the Clos des Ducs. Certainly the wine that will require longest in the cellar, given how young a recent 1990 tasted, I see no reason to consider drinking this before 2015.
(Comtes Lafon Volnay Santenots de Milieu) This was some awesome juice but was way too young. Great elegance matched with unreal density and sap. Maybe a touch too much oak on the nose at this stage in it's life but I am sure it will absorbed by the incredible fruit. Just oodles and oodles of cherries along with spice and floral inner mouth aromas. Thrilling to drink. Have to check this out in 10 years.