The roller coaster continues. After a few sub-par bottles, this one was singing. Pale to mid straw, a lightly saline nose. Proper GC weight and texture, decent flavour and length, maybe not quite as intense and grippy as it could be, but really good. Proper maturing GC Chablis and a lovely pairing with a turbot. ****
Decanted, and some worrying fine brown sediment with the dregs. Quite a full gold in colour. Nose initially a little adelhydic and worrying, though curiously this seems to low off and the wine isn't actually poxed but it is overly mature and tiring. A sense of sweetness to it too. Some minerality, the riper frame that GC tends to in its maturity with more than a nod towards the Côte d'Or, but also a simplicity, lack of grip and length that makes this an acceptable drink but not exciting. 10/12. Of the ten to date, three clear poxes, three or four also-rans (to varying degrees) and two or three absolutely stellar IIRC. Ho hum. I've had much better luck with the 99 Clos and both Clos and Preuses in 2000. ***
Mid to full straw. Mineral, saline, grippy minerality. A sense of richness on the palate countered by a good mineral grip on the mid-palate. Zingy. GC weight but lacks some intensity and complexity on the finish. Merely good. ***1/2
Bryan's Dinner Party Offline (The Ledbury, London): Deepish gold but slightly lighter than the 96 Rav Clos alongside. Leaner nose, though this is starting to open up just as I've finished my glass. Mineral, slightly saline. Rounder, more generous on the attack, fruit properly ripe. Shows a more classic mineral middle and finish with decent grip. Lacks a little weight and intensity of minerality cf previous bottles, possibly because not decanter or given the chance to open up as previous bottles have. Good though. ***1/2
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