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  • By Chris Kissack
    October 2012, (See more on Winedoctor...) 17 points

    (François Lamarche Echézeaux) A remarkably rich and deep colour, surely a marker of the vintage. Rather disconcertingly there is a little volatility on the nose at first, but this soon blows off, leaving behind fruit with a rather roasted character, tinged with leather, in keeping with the character of the vintage. At first there is still a little note of balsamic to it though, with notes of sur-maturité as well. It all feels a little reminiscent of the 2003 Clos de Vougeot, on which I reported almost a year ago. The difference here, however, is that coming back to the Echézeaux 24 hours later the nose seemed much tighter and focused, suggesting a more linear character to the fruit. This development was mirrored on the palate, which started off rather rich and full, textured with baked fruit and balsamic tinges, albeit underpinned by a dry structure and some ripe, polished tannins, giving a lot of backbone. But the following day, again it felt fresher and more linear, with more sharply defined edges, which might suggest - I hope so, anyway - that there is a chance of some positive development here. This certainly seemed to be a wine of the vintage, rather than the region, when I first opened it, but it could still make old bones I think. I have no strong position, but it is worth remembering that some in the region liken 2003 to the great 1947 vintage.

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