At Imperial Treasure Peking duck Paragon to welcome Peter back from his Aussie adventure. Bright red, very pleasing appearance. Wayne opened this as the first Chambolle of the evening. The nose on this wine was very vibrant, full of bright red fruit, lovely rose petals, some jasmine and lavender. The palate was pleasant, with decent structure, good balanced fruits but somehow lacked the complexity and finish. However, when this was revealed as a 2004, I was pleasantly surprised. I did not detect (although some others could) any hint of greenness from the vintage character on this wine. In fact, it was filled with rich, vibrant fruit. A terrific effort for a 2004!
Not quite at the same level as I recall from shortly after release. Concentrated red cherry and raspberry with some new oak spice still quite prominent. Similar fruit flavors with a slightly underripe character, followed by lots of minerality and good acidity. Some sharp elbows.
So, I finally caught some greenies. I haven't had a ton, but a half dozen or so 1ers the past year or so have been good to me. This one, green, overtly tart, medicinal and volatile. Despite a somewhat alluring nose, I really struggled to get through one glass. Too bad, but my first obviously not right '04.
The 1999 vintage of this wine was an oaky disaster, but people kept insisting that Perrot-Minot had gotten better in this department and that I wouldn't say the same of the newer wines. The 2004 is not really the oaky disaster that the 1999 was, but oak is nevertheless the dominant flavor here and it ruins what could have been a Musignyesque wine, based on the sappy, satiny texture of the first few sips before the oak contagion really went malignant. Unlike the 1999, the oak here doesn't dry out the wine and leave raw wood and sawdust in its wake; instead it just tarts up the fruit with an intense brown-sugar malted-milkshake sweetness - all the way on the sweet end of the oak flavor spectrum with none of the spice. So it may be the *kind* of oak that's the issue here as much as the amount. This is not *vastly* more dominated by oak than the 2004 Clos des Lambrays, for example, but the oakspice of the Lambrays was enticing whereas here the malted makeup is just tiring. And it's a shame because the fruit underneath is just gorgeous, totally svelte and alluringly feminine in true Musignyesque fashion with none of the greenness nor even any of the acidic edginess of the 2004 vintage. This could easily pass for a 2002. I am almost tempted to buy some more and hope the oak integrates, but that would represent the triumph of hope over experience. Indeed, the leftovers the next day turn undrinkably oaky, with the burnt-coffee roasted character having completely sucked the fruit dry.
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