Lots of citrus fruits and yellow flowers plus some honey in the elegant nose; high acidity on the palate, grapefruits, lemon zests, caramel, and some wood spices; medium-long finish, also lots of citrus fruits and some wood spices; overall, 91-92 points at this stage; a graceful champagne indeed.
A private lunch (Restaurant Mirazur **, Menton, France): Very crisp and mineral, reduction on the nose, herbs and lemons, bitter orange, long and incisive finish. Seems very different from (and much tighter than) the bottle tasted in March 2016. Does it need some post-disgorgement ageing?
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(NV Henriot Blanc de Blancs) This cuvée accounts for 10% of the house's output, and in this instance is based on the 2004 vintage. It includes 40% reserve wines, and has seen four years on its lees. A fresh and stony style on the nose. with faintly crystalline fruit. A softer, slightly more fleshy style than the straight non-vintage, with honey and nutty elements coming from the reserve wines. A very gentle mousse. A really admirable style here.
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