Racion: big, opaque, warm, blackberry and blackcurrant and plum notes. Big dose of oak on this, quite warm, soft, overblown. Made to be the big modern wine it is. Would like to know if it is still made in this style today.
A private lunch (Ron Gastrobar, Amsterdam, Netherlands): Immense weight of black and red fruit, hints of ink and tar but also floral topnotes, touch of beefstock; not coarse in any way, satiny, perfectly integrated new oak, supported by a strong frame of ripe tannins, lowish but adequate acidity, impeccable balance, even manages elegance (in spite of 14.8% ABV), velvety extract, amazing length; the slightly portlike finish is my only qualm.
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