Tight and somewhat milky in taste on day one. Re-corked and put in the fridge. Day 2 with lunch, and its singing. Lovely peach and cherry fruit with electric acidity and a long finish that is like a razor made from fruit. Outstanding bottle - just needed to be patient.
The cork immediately had me worried, seeming a little loose and coming out with no resistance at all. The wine was deep golden, almost orange in colour, making me immediately worry about oxidation. An initial taste confirmed it - quite sweet with some honey and peach notes, but the dominant flavour is that of stale apples left out in the sun far too long. Felt flat and tired in the mouth with very little apparent acidity and a brief finish. With about a half hour of air this started to pick up slightly as the oxidative notes seemed to recede a little and some more youthful apple and spice flavours emerged - but after another half hour this was again tasting like a mix of sherry and stale apple juice. Frustrating.
Like many '96 Rieslings, this still needs cellar time, but unlike many, I have high hopes for eventual harmony and grace. Lots of fruit left in this one, and the acids are not at all disjointed. Beginning to develop a creamy mouthfeel that is just wonderful. Cherries and Mutsu apples on the palate. Give it 3 more years in the cellar before opening.
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