I've long had a positive attitude to this wine though seldom drink it, that's probably because I put it in the "chocolate milkshake" school of Barossa shiraz – and yes it is a bit, but this is a stereotype. Elderton Command is certainly ripe, warm climate shiraz with (some) American oak, but it isn't souped up like the Parker points chasing wines that came out in the past decade. Nor is it in the the dense winemaker Penfold's style of substantial tannin, oak and added acid. Yes there is some added acid and yes there is some American oak, but this is a rather beautiful relaxed style of Barossa shiraz.
It's a rather remarkable wine. True to terroir. Silky, creamy Barossa shiraz but with depth, intensity, complexity and restrain. Just barely starting to show the characters of age, best over the next decade.
Not something to drink regularly, but worth treasuring occasionally.
At 11 years old this is drinking beautifully. Every bit as good as a good Grange for a fraction of the price. Exudes that 'true to Aus' burnt tar taste that you only get with a top quality decade old Shiraz. Beautifully balanced and textured.
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