From 375ml. Having drunk through a case of splits of the very good-to-excellent 2008 Le Haut Lieu sec, started tonight on '02 Le Mont, whose first example proved an order of magnitude superior. Reviews are quite mixed, but my specimen was youthful in color yet evolved on the nose and palate, showing aristocratic bones not present in the 2008 Haut Lieu. Should hold for 5-10 years, even in the 375 format. Any time you find yourself doubting Huet's greatness, just double down and be rewarded.
There seems to be a few question marks on this vintage and I can see why. Quite developed, even at 13yrs, and there's a sweet funkiness I can't really reconcile. Still, kinda interesting and in very good shape for its age. Won't keep like a Bredif though.
Bright tulip color. Classic quince aromas with a whiff of honey. Very, very tight and dry before it began to unfold with 30 minutes of air. Medium weight, and as I've noted before, a texture that is a like a synthesis of Vouvray and Savennieres or Saumur (which is to say more earthy than Chenin Blanc from the east of Tours). Slightly glossy entry of pear joined by sharp citrus (grapefruit?), and then a headspinning finish of acidity and minerality. This shows NO residual sugar. This particular bottle was probably the freshest and most vigorous of some 8 or 9 tasted over the years. I dunno-people keep finding oxidized bottles of 2002 Huet, and I keep drinking and enjoying them. I can only hope that my luck doesn't run out.
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(Domaine Huet Vouvray Le Mont Sec) Poured from a half bottle, this has a vibrant yellow-gold hue, still very clean and bright, rich in terms of depth of colour but not overly so. Wines that are just too gold suggest excessive age or even oxidation, but there are no such thoughts here (the same can't be said of much white Burgundy, sadly); this wine still appears very youthful despite its ten years. I find great, reassurring minerality on the nose, crunchy and intense, pure with the flesh of lemon and pear fruit wrapped around its stony core. Then it segues very nicely into a really pure, liquid-stone character. This is beautifully pure and lifted, minerally with great depth and grip, with a full and gentle flesh. Underneath though it is really quite energetic and charged, lifted by all that invigorating lemony pear-skin. And it is very long too. This is delicious now, but there is still massive potential here - this has years ahead of it yet. Burgundy, eat your heart out. Alcohol 12.5%.
(Domaine Huet Vouvray Le Mont Sec) Predominantly mineral aromas on the nose, like crumbled, chalky rocks - a terroir note perhaps - with a touch of classic wet wool to round it out. A faint tingle of dissolved carbon dioxide on entry. Otherwise it's round, mouthfilling, but very bright and minerally on the palate. Quite rich, but cut through by a firm citrus acidity. Clearly shows the quality of the 2002 vintage.
(Domaine Huet Vouvray Le Mont Sec) From half bottles. I last opened one of these very early this year, and it was a delight, showing great definition and delightfully invigorating fruit. Here today it seems more sullen, and although all the same fruit richness and grip can be perceived, it is certainly more reticent. The aromatics hide behind a little stalky, woody note, and it lacks the freshness I found previously. Work it though, and give it time, and the aromatics come out. The nose is full of golden-minerally fruit, pear-skin, sweetly desiccated, with hints of caramel-crunch and ginger. The palate is broad, substantial and nicely defined, the rather confident structure coming though here, with sour edges to the fruit and firm acidity. There is good stony minerally character, with a more harmonious middle and pithy, sappy finish. Long, rather savoury here, and appealing despite those earlier concerns. Good.
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