Continues to improve, good thing I have one more left after this one. It was a cold winter night, I was having crab cakes, and I wasn't in the mood for one of those bright, crisp whites that trails icicles on the palate - something with bottle age was called for. This fit the bill nicely. It's developed a golden complexion and the story over the course of the bottle is basically a tug-of-war between the thick, creamy fruit on the one side and a scraped, rocky texture on the other - I love how it pulls off both richness and precision. This wine always felt bone-dry but it has such thick fruit material that it comes across as positively luscious without seeping outside the lines.
This is my third time tasting this wine since release and it's been a different wine each time. The first bottle was saturating and creamy. The second totally closed down and tight as nails. This one indicates the wine has finally started to reopen, although it is still massively structured, which is good because it is also massive in scale. It's such a heavyweight it almost reminds me of a Zind Humbrecht although none of my Zinds appeared to have retained the energy after a few years in the bottle that this one has held on to. It's got a real structural sizzle to it and while the fruit is still fairly bright and luscious it is not a spritely, nimble wine -- it certainly tastes like it's packing more than the 13% alcohol listed on the label.
Nose showed gem-like and pristine tropical fruits, esp. grapefruit. On the palate, crispy and gleaming minerally water with remarkable acidity and detail. Brilliant with food. Needs time to for the fruit to mellow a little but shows beautiful cut and was terrific with Crayeuse and Forsterkase from Murrays. I need to buy some more of this.
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