2004 Kooyong Pinot Noir Haven

The WINEFRONT

• By Campbell Mattinson
  9/15/2006, (See more on The WINEFRONT...)

  (Kooyong Haven Pinot Noir) Login and subscribe to see review text.

Halliday Wine Companion

• By James Halliday
  9/11/2006, (See more on Halliday Wine Companion...)

  (Kooyong Single Vineyard Selection Haven Pinot Noir) Subscribe to see review text.

• By Josh Raynolds
  July/August 2006, IWC Issue #127, (See more on Vinous...)

  (Kooyong Pinot Noir Haven Mornington Peninsula) Login and sign up and see review text.

Garagiste

• By Jon Rimmerman
  6/29/2007, (See more on Garagiste...)

  (HAVEN Pinot Noir KOOYONG) Kooyong Dear Friends, As fans of effort, terroir and dedication to the craft, the single-vineyard efforts from Kooyong on Australia’s Mornington Peninsula are going to change the way many perceive Pinot Noir and Chardonnay from Down Under. Along with Bindi and a few exclusive others, this winery has a chance to be a major player in the US and world market and all of the wines below are well worth your attention. We first carried Kooyong four years ago and the wines have not disappointed since, instead each vintage has elevated their position among the elite producers of Burgundian varietals in the New World. One thing is certain, the Victorian soil and climate are not only adept at cool climate production but the results may be startling to even the Burgundians themselves (I know - I served various vintages of Bindi, Kooyong and other Victorian producers to six winemakers in Volnay and Pommard and they were completely floored). Whether in the Macedon Ranges, Yarra Valley or now the Mornington Peninsula south of Melbourne Victoria is about to have its day and many would argue that day is already here. Kooyong lies in a special place, on the above mentioned Mornington Peninsula, which literally sticks out into the ocean and points towards Tasmania. This is one of Australia’s coolest land masses as its surrounded by water on all sides and it is one of the furthest south of any in the country (in the Southern Hemisphere, that means closer to the South Pole). The property is planted on various exposures and each vineyard plot produces unique wines that are quite distinctive. The winery focuses on special single-vineyard bottles but most of the production goes into an “Estate” series and a second wine called “Massale”. The Estate and Massale are excellent wines but it is the limited top-tier we focus on today, the Single-Vineyard series and they are exciting indeed. 2004 was one of those magical, elegant vintages where Pinot Noir really shines. In sum, these are special wines and they deserve to be recognized especially as the prices are quite reasonable versus their competitive Chardonnay and Pinot Noir compatriots. Dive in - you’ll be very glad you did: 2004 Kooyong “Faultline” Chardonnay Mornington Peninsula STRICT LIMIT 12/person If you plonk down huge sums of money for Marcassin, Aubert or Kongsgaard all I can say is - try this. One of Australia’s most revered white wines (along with Bindi’s Quartz Chardonnay and Giaconda Chardonnay), this wine may possess the most terroir of the bunch and it’s the least expensive by a wide margin. A stunning effort in every regard and a sure-fire blind tasting “stump the host” wine: 2004 Kooyong “Ferrous” Pinot Noir Mornington Peninsula STRICT LIMIT 6/person The Ferrous is the seductress and wild ride - the exotic song-bird that takes you on its wings and dives and weaves for your amusement but just when things were getting comfortable, look out. This is a serious bottle of Pinot Noir and one that I’m sure will be looked at by other New World producers that have had a difficult time taming a warm climate and its effect on the varietal. I’m not going to say this will be one of the more talked about wines we’ve offered in a while but it will certainly cause a commotion, especially at a price that is far lower than Aubert or other US producers trying to play at the high end: Jane Faulkner The Age: “Of the three single vineyard wines made at Kooyong, Ferrous is the most approachable when young, and also the most aromatic. It’s a seductive wine that teases with its savoury notes and fragrance and then opens up to reveal much, with a good airing, starting with morello cherry, sour plum notes and then crushed kernels and, indeed, a ferrous note. It builds texture with its creamy vanillin note and oak seamlessly integrated; soft, fine-grained tannins, round and velvety; and it just glides across the palate to a lingering finish.” 2004 Kooyong “Haven” Pinot Noir Mornington Peninsula STRICT LIMIT 6/person The Haven is their grand cru vineyard and it is the most limited wine in the portfolio. Completely closed in youth, this wine needs several years to develop but its masculine presence and quality are layered within a brick wall of intensity. Very complicated wine that will reward the patient. If the Ferrous is the Amoureuses, this is the Bonnes Mares and it will ultimately be the better wine - one for the cellar: ******************************** All are VERY HIGHLY RECOMMENDED Thank you, Jon Rimmerman Garagiste Seattle, WA Aus9916 Aus9915 Aus9914