Some Champagnes: Served as a started, blind to the others. Peak maturity, and thus a bit more advanced than the best bottles I have had – admittedly some years back. Honey and nuts were wonderfully kept in balance with a very fine acidity. Very long, and gained complexity with air. Intriguing finish.
Full straw. Reasonable stream of fine to medium bubbles. Very rich on the nose, a touch of oxidative ness, but nose dominated by richness with warm butter, hot toast and digestive biscuit notes. Full, rich, good fruit and nice definition on the attack. Similar through the mid palate and a positive medium to long finish. More complexity here than a previous bottle in 2011. 2000 Oenotheque, so presumably a 99 disgorgement. ****1/2
Friday Night in Toronto (10tation Catering): Light gold in colour. Surprisingly appearing to be the least advanced Champagne served tonight. Initially a bit reticent, but as it warmed, the nose gave way to lemon zest, wet stones, spice, grated ginger, yeast, baked apple, a touch of orchard fruit, and after about 30 minutes, notes of freshly ground espresso emerged. On the palate, good concentration, but a touch leaner than the other two Champagnes served tonight. Finish is long and crisp, showing racy acidity, closing out with citrus, apple, mineral and a tinge of bitter walnut skin on the finish. This bottle still seemed to be on the upswing.
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