2001 Patrizia Cencioni Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 123

JancisRobinson.com

• By Jancis Robinson, MW
  8/7/2007, (See more on JancisRobinson.com...)

  (Solaria, Riserva Brunello di Montalcino Red) Subscribe to see review text.

• By Antonio Galloni
  2001 Brunello Vintage (Aug 2006), (See more on Vinous...)

  (Solaria Brunello Di Montalcino 123) Login and sign up and see review text.

Garagiste

• By Jon Rimmerman
  6/18/2008, (See more on Garagiste...)

  (SOLARIA 123 Brunello) 2001 Brunello Dear Friends, Been craving 2001 Cerbaiona? How about something equally as interesting or even more so? Brunello has received a bad rap lately and I'm not sure why? A few bad seeds have spoiled the whole party and (in truth) the culprits and big commercial houses in Brunello are way behind as it is. Most of the small producers in this region just want to make great wine from estate fruit and have no intention of doctoring their pride and joy Duboeuf-style. If you are honest and fastidious, you don't cheat. Our heroine today, Patrizia Cencioni, isn't interested in cheating - she doesn't need to. Solaria is a new name in Brunello on the southeastern side of the town of Montalcino and Cencioni is intent on molding the same image as Montevetrano in Campania - with results like these, she is well on her way. This is a woman-owned and operated winery and they produce very little wine. The goal is Soldera-like rarity and quality at far lower prices. Patrizia is not a white-glove owner - she plows the field by hand, drives a tractor and prunes the vines herself. She is involved in every aspect of the winemaking and it's only a matter of time before this winery gains the same reputation as Silvia Imparato's famous estate. With only a few vintages under her belt, Solaria is one of the more promising Brunello producers we've come across from a region that needs an inspirational leader to rake out the muck that is bringing down the whole. To give you an introduction, we may as well start with the best vintage (2001) and we may as well skip the regular wines and head straight to the Riserva/single vineyard - the 123. Solaria produces a small quantity of a special wine called "123" that is sourced from her highest, least yielding rows that produce the lowest alcohol (in this case between 13.0-13.50%). The fruit from this area around 1000ft above sea level always shows itself to be the very best on her property and it is worth singling out in Riserva-quality vintages. Feist aside, the 2001 vintage produced the finest fruit she has grown and the "123" is a stunner of a wine - easily among the very best wines in all of Brunello and one of the least expensive in the vintage for this level. The wine is a massive effort that still seems to float with the most discreet elegance - it is pent up on its black-as-night fruit and new wood right now will require years of cellaring to come around but it should be more than worth the effort. A special wine that I am not alone in admiring: Robert Simonson: "Funny how nuts people get over Brunello. I went to "Benvenuto Brunello," the industry tasting held at grand Gotham Hall on Jan. 29 (2008) by the Consorzio del Vino Brunello di Montalcino, and it was packed... Of course, there were a gajillion wines there, so some stand-outs and trend-buckers came through... But the thing that will stay with me the most from the tasting is the 2001 Brunello "123" from Solaria. This is a small, artisanal winery run by Patrizia Cencioni, who tends to her 50 hectares personally and only puts out a wine when she feels it measures up... The Solaria wines were easily the most elegant and dignified I tasted. The fruit was strong but understated. Everything was in harmony. It was almost Burgundy-like. You could taste the care that had gone into the wine." The 2001 "123" is very hard to find in any significant quantity - you can find a few bottles here and there and I've tried for a while to find more than a few 6-packs - I finally came up with a parcel this afternoon directly from the source, so here you go - all at a great price...about the same as in Europe. I'm sure this received 90pts or higher form Antonio Galloni as well but I don't have access to my laptop to cut and paste WA reviews. ONE SHIPMENT ONLY at this price. HIGHLY RECOMMENDED for support of a woman-owned winery that is trying to impress with nothing but the fruit of her land and her hard work: 2001 Solaria Brunello di Montalcino "123" . If you wish to order a full case, please let Niki know, but the quantities will probably limit this to 6 or less. Thank you, Jon Rimmerman Garagiste Seattle, WA Italy6555