A Dinner Focused on Two 1990 First Growths (Home): Half bottle. Deep amber/gold. Prominent secondary botrytis notes and a strong element of fig. Very sweet and unctuous, lively balancing acidity. Great length. A true essence, but this small format bottle could have used more complexity to elevate it to the level of its mythic reputation. Do not let the dark color fool you, though; even out of a small format, this is still very much alive and kicking.
A wonderful evening of Chenin. (Chez Kravitz- Old Saybrook): Yes, a bit of a baby killer, but it was good to check in on it and I’m glad Marco brought it so I could let mine sleep longer. It was decanted about four or five hours prior to our having it. There was more brightness and youthfulness to this bottle than my past few samples. Still quite primary with an intense apricot character, a hit of marmalade, pineapple and quince that’s moving into the darker quince paste realm. Of course there’s a strong mineral streak with just a bit of marzipan. There’s a lot of residual sugar here, but the magic of this wine has always been the balance the acidity gives it. Just perfectly balanced. Really, it’s a benchmark wine for describing balance. A youthful, immortal wine. A+.
Chenin Blancs @ the Kravitz (Old Saybrook): Such a monumental wine. A quarter of a century old, yet still vigorous and full of life. A concentrated elixir of apricot, honey, quince, orange marmalade and assorted rich tropical fruit. A sneaky hint of minerals is able to poke through the wealth of honeyed, fruity goodness. Lengthy, tangy, clingy finish. For all its weight, it remains lively, energetic and clean. Outrageously good.
Spicy, many-fruited nose. A long, bursting progression of sweet, mellow yellow and white fruits on the palate, so centered overall, effortlessly powerful, it could swat you like a fly while doing a back-flip on the balance beam. One of the best wines I've ever had.
unbelievable. I would only rate this so high because I have had amazing tokaji essencia and the great Alsace SGN. This wine was had after a 37 year old red Burg that rocked, a 2000 Bordeaux from the Nargaux appellation that was a second growth a Blanc Bordeaux from 2005 that was liquid mineral with fruit to spare and one of the most unique wines I have ever had that after two shared bottles remains unique in the world of Barolo and fortified aromatic wines.
Every possible type of heated it cooked sugar from butterscotch and toffe to salted caramels with every tropical fruit and every stoned fruit from it fresh form to its best dehydrated form. Turkish apricots for example with bright acidity that was more candied citrus making this wine effortlessly float about the mouth.
Michael Briadbent was do right in with this wine. I think we got hints of the wet wool after testing some course wool socks. Really once in a lifetime stuff.
I could be rating this perfect with no real hesitantly. 98+-100pts.
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(Domaine Huet Vouvray Cuvée Constance) A rich and golden orange hue. A truly fabulous nose, simply loaded with the aromas of crystalline honey, sweet pastries, clean and evocative, with rich, crunchy and well defined fruit and yet it sings of ethereal precision as well. There is great definition and sweetness, all with an intense, precise, smoky, golden-honeycomb lift. This is just remarkable. I lingered over the aromatics of this wine more than any other at this tasting. Pure on entry, defined and rich, supple and yet full of layers of rich botrytis-influenced fruit, this wine has an incredible presence on the palate, very broad and yet it doesn't for one moment feel heavy or flat. It is a tour de force in selection and winemaking, impressing not with power or absolute level of residual sugar but in the way it dances purely across the palate. Absolutely stunning. A class apart.
(Huet Vouvray "Cuvee Constance") I was very excited to try this. It was closed, awkward and weird. There was nice botrytis development as the nose was praline, dusty spicey earth, marmalade and almonds. The palate was kind of blah-zay with not much going on and turned in on itself. Nice wine for sure with a killer finish and good acidity and freshness but give this 50 years and check back. Full bottle too. Maybe would be a touch more developed in a 1/2 bottle.
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