Bought in a bin end sale so I can't be sure of storage but having had two bottles I can be sure I won't be purchasing this again. Aromatically interesting with some florality and noticeable viognier influences that go some of, but by no means all of, the way to masking the oak. The palate however is a huge disappointment. Thin, attenuated, dominated by acidity and dry tannins, this is now little short of vin de table. Definitely on its way downhill, the oak sheen is even now struggling to hide the paucity of fruit.
Comes across surprisingly polished even a bit oaky. Obviously a bit hard to taste after two natural wines. Also, this is clearly young and quite a few years from showing more nuance is my sense. Concentrated, purple but slightly polished fruit. Lacking the feminine character of Côte Rotie, but may just be a matter of patience. At Kensington Wine Rooms in London.
Initially we're unsure if it's a Clusel-Roch or a Domaine de Tunnel in the glass ;-) since the nose is almost muted. In comparison with Jamet's 2009 CdR here's little to find. Besides an recognisable yet very low-key syrah character, a hint of volatility, some pencil ink and christmas spice. As we taste the wine, the muted impressions continue. Almost flat, the acidity doesn't sing at all, but the midpalate mouthfeel obviously has good silkyness. The wine doesn't really show its class until there's some food to work with. At last we can appreciate how the taste builds a nice arc with its elegant structure and decent length. After a few hours the nose and palate opens up with a bit of smoked sausage and saltiness. Well, it's a risky business to open côte-rôties between 4 and 7 years of age...
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If you are interested in organic/hand-made and hand-tended Cote Rotie of the highest order (in a format this is almost impossible to come by - half bottles), today's your day.
Clusel-Roche is one of the early pioneers with natural and organic farming above Ampuis and they've inspired many others to go the same route. Everything is done the way it was in the 1800's with hand tills and no mechanization. Only herbs are used as "pesticides" and the resulting wines have a feminine, sultry blue-fruit purity that is immediately recognizable as Clusel-Roche. The Syrah from this producer has a Chambolle-like natural sap that is is sensual and delicate but mesmerizing all the same for its deceptive power and lasting impression on the palate. Often noted as producing the "Amoureuses of Cote Rotie", the analogy is easy to understand once a few sips are passed before your lips. In addition, the natural farming gives aromatics that mesh terroir, dark fruit, spice and violets all woven into a more serious note of pancetta. Taken as a whole, this is Syrah that could only come from a very specific hillside in the Northenr Rhone.
The 2006 Cote Rotie is from a stellar year and they only produce a small number of half-bottles - we secured as many as we could (when do you ever get the chance to acquire Cote Rotie if this nature in half bottles? Not very often). Quantities are limited so I will leave it at that...
HIGHLY RECOMMENDED as a beautiful and reflective wine in a perfect size for an impromptu lunch...
This parcel is directly from the winery cellar with perfect provenance:
2006 Clusel-Roche Cote Rotie 375ml
...we also have a few magnums...
2006 Clusel-Roche Cote Rotie 1.5lt
Both formats are EXTREMELY LIMITED - please give us your maximum number of each and we will allocate accordingly
Jon Rimmerman Garagiste Seattle, WA Rhone9308 Rhone9309
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