2005 Domaine Des Hauts Chassis Crozes-Hermitage Les Chassis

Garagiste

• By Jon Rimmerman
  7/17/2007, (See more on Garagiste...)

  (Haut Chassis LES CHASSIS Crozes-Hermitage) Haut Chassis Dear Friends, On the wine road, there are moments of absolute revelation and this is one of them. Introducing Haut Chassis - one of the most important new producers you’ve never heard of and a winery that reminds me of Chave circa 1983. If Cote Rotie meets Hermitage for an eye-popping price sounds appetizing, read on... The Northern Rhone evokes passion among collectors unlike any other region (even Burgundy aficionados are not usually as fierce as dedicated Northern Rhone collectors). In great vintages like the foursome of 1988-1991 the droves come out in, well, droves and many have been waiting for almost 15 years to rekindle the magic. While 1999 gave a peek into the 1990 vintage, it is 2005 and 2006 that are the first true back-to-back magical years in this region and a potential playback of 1990/1991 or even a two-step of 1988 and 1991. In other words, there is much to be excited about (and the 2005s keep getting even better in bottle). In the face of the above vintage hyperbole, Haut Chassis is an enigma - a shining star of Syrah in the middle of so many other Rhone competitors. In fact, I will predict this winery will be the highest scoring and most critically acclaimed producer ever to emerge from Crozes-Hermitage. I’ve tasted my fair share of muddling Crozes (and beautiful, feminine examples of the Syrah from here as well) but this winery has it all and the key is doing nothing except letting the vintage come to them. Franck Faugier is the hand of wisdom that guides the style and excellence of this property and his methods are as non-interventionist as it gets (unless he’s cultivating their organic apricots and other fruit trees - which need tender care). When you have exceptional terroir to start with and excellent vintage conditions, nature can allow a fleeting meeting of the minds between vine and man - such was the case here in 2005 and 2006 (and I’m sure in vintages to come). There are three Crozes-Hermitage from the winery but it is the top two - the Granits and Chassis that are going to change the nature of the game (the other, the tank fermented Esquisses is more of an early pressings style and it can be rangy in youth despite its nature to be consumer before the others). I outline the wines below but do not be fooled by the difference in price - both are worthy of your exploration and then some. Certainly expensive for Crozes, you should compare these to Hermitage and Cote Rotie and not typical Crozes-Hermitage. Please note: Look up whatever you need to - consumer reviews, research, etc but this is a one-time offer that we have to take advantage of now (the price to me goes up on the 1st). I’ve tried to combat the Euro’s endless malice against our currency but it seems like we are presently the whipping boy of the European monetary system (can we bring back the “Don’t tread on me” slogan?). Please let Niki know your interest at your very earliest convenience. Both are VERY HIGHLY RECOMMENDED - both are priced about the same as in Europe: 2006 Haut Chassis Crozes-Hermitage “Les Granits” EXTREMELY LIMITED Ok, this has not been reviewed yet and they are giving me first crack at it but the entire vintage is already spoken for. A replay of the 2005 with even more satiny, smoky depth and detailed fruit (if that is possible), the 2006 vintage has earned a quasi-mythical reputation among enthusiasts as a replay of 1991 in the Northern Rhone and in a strange global occurrence, it is (once again) one of the only regions in Europe to stand-out (along with Austria and parts of Italy). If there were ever money well spent in your exploration of wine, this is it. If you could crush pure rock, a day-old campfire and the most beautiful silky Syrah imaginable, combine it in a wood chipper and bottle the semi-crushed and tumbled substance as wine, it would be something like this gorgeous beverage of floral aromatic fireworks and traditional leaning that is as seductive as old-world Syrah can be in this price range. No new oak of any kind makes this a wine that will have many longing for days past (days like a junior version of 1983 Chave in barrel). Will be at peak in 3-5 years and hold for another 6-10. Outstanding. 2005 Haut Chassis Crozes-Hermitage “Les Chassis” (Decanter 5/5) EXTREMELY LIMITED I believe this is the only wine from Crozes-Hermitage Decanter rated as a perfect 5/5 - it is that impressive. Expensive for Crozes but not so expensive for many of the Hermitage that this wine literally leaves in the dust behind its regal coattails and massive frame. This is a big, bad, black hole of perfumed Syrah that will get its due from a wide range of the powers that be. Cigar ash (good cigar ash), meat, minerals and a lovely whiff of brett make this one of the more complex wines on the market at this price. Deft precision makes its mark despite the size and the second time I tasted this it was with a double decanted bottle of Delas-Freres Hermitage Les Bessards from 2003 and the 2005 Chassis made the Bessards seem childish - enough said. Should be at its best in 5-8 years and last for another 10. Simply outstanding - the yang to the Galet’s yin. Thank you, Jon Rimmerman Garagiste Seattle, WA Rhone9190 Rhone9180