Tasted blind at the Domaine, the 2000 Montrachet opens up in the glass with a beautiful bouquet of ripe apple, pear, tangerine oil, hints of vanilla and white flowers and other ineffable aromas, inflected with subtle traces of botrytis (as Bernard Noblet confirms). On the palate, the wines searing minerality almost obscures its vast volume and ripeness, which only becomes apparent as the second glass opens up: with an hour's decant this would really explode. DRC pick their Montrachet very late, indeed, Bernard jokes that they know the fruit is ready to pick when the birds are eating it, yet somehow the wine never become corpulent—presumably thanks to old vines, tiny yields and a great terroir? Simply a white wine paradigm all of its own.
Shows a most notable meaty nose – yes, meat! – and real muscle on the palate with carmel notes, lots of oaky, succulent density. As is usually the case with the DRC Montrachets, this is a big , fleshy wine that is most likely not everyone’s cup of tea but I find that in the very good white wine vintages, vintages with good clean acidity, can be magnificent and worth the high tariff for this wine. The wine is certainly mature now and will continue to hold well but 2000 is not a vintage that will good as long as some others (barring the dreaded POX!).
Saturday Dinner.: Our next flight was a real treat - 2000 and 2002 DRC Montrachet. A couple of the guys had drunk the 00 last year, and talked it up as possibly being the best young white burg tasted. They were right. Both were outstanding, but the 00 is in a class by itself. Rich, expressive, charming. When you think about how young this is, and how long it will hold up, it blows your mind. The 02 was more tightly wound, with intense minerality. It gained traction over a few hours, but the 02 is not a wine to be opened early, whereas the 00 can be enjoyed thoroughly today (seriously). A wine drinkers dream flight. Both bottles were decanted about two hours ahead of dinner, and poured early to get more air time in the glass.
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(DRC Montrachet) The 2000 DRC Montrachet was more elegant than the ’01, long and cleaner in its aromas, more 2000 in style than DRC. There was a kiss of ice skating rink to its citrusy nose, and the palate was delicious, with lots of minerals, grit and elegance, although King Richard found it the ‘weak man here.’ It didn’t have the raw materials of the ’01, but I found it quite pleasant, although it did wane in the glass. The 2000 was singing for Ed, and Bipin admired its acidity
(DRC Montrachet) extraordinary. The breed of Montrachet, the style of the vintage and the quality of DRC all came through in this bottle. Unlike the 2002 that I had a couple weeks prior, there was no Caliesque impression to its nose, and even Ray was fully erect, a rare sight when it comes to wine. There were piercing aromas of minerals and stones to its racy nose, a nose full of zip, zing and zoom. There were great, taut flavors with toast, minerals, white fruits, citrus and earth. Ray was gushing about the .clarity and purity of fruit. while Gorky was admiring its integration and how .it is drinking so well,. a fact that he interestingly called .scary.. Ray had to put something down, so he called the DRC .twice the wine of the Sauzet. which followed
(Romanée-Conti Montrachet) Medium-pale yellow with just a tinge of green to the rim. Citrus, apple, peach and toasty bread all glued together with a botrytis note - lots of things you can find on the nose. Once you put your lips to the glass you're in for quite an experience - the wine is just so fat you can't believe that it can be balanced - but balanced it is. Somehow seems to have a mineral streak running through its centre too. Very long. Yep - I'm impressed!
(DRC Montrachet) Lemon, honey, apple spice, minerals. Maybe a hint of peanut butter. Incredibly unctuous in the mouth with mindnumbing complexity and richness. Waves of hazelnuts, coconut, toffee, poached pears and other slightly candied fruits just attack the palate. Perfectly balanced with a long lingering and incredibly dense finish. This was showing beautifully
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