I do not agree with the notes below. It's true that the acidity in this wine is not searing, nor is it prominent. But it is sufficient to keep the wine in balance. Takes some air still to open up and then the wine is a study in secondary characteristics that on day one showed a flinty quality most prominently and also prototypical honey/wax/wool. Ultra pure and quite fresh, lively. Day two the wine harmonizes more and shows a seamless character, although it's still more about mineral than fruit. Very good wine, and in the context of the very ripe vintage, excellent. I think there is upside still to holding, too.
From magnum. Opened an hour in bottle, then poured and served with baked kabocha squash and pan-fried sweetbreads over dandelion greens (thank you, AOC cookbook for the inspiration). Some nice chenin character but I agree with other notes that this wine lacked the acidity I otherwise expect from Clos Habert. Paired v nicely with the food, though, and after vac u vin overnight the last glass the next day showed virtually no deterioration.
This is a bit of a tightwire act. The slight bitterness in the finish suggests that this needs more time in bottle. But the fruit is right there, deep, rich, tightly wound. Not heavy, but plenty sweet. If I had more, I would open at 6-month intervals over the next few years, as there are already signs that this will fall off the cliff at some point in the next 2-3 years.
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(François Chidaine Montlouis-sur-Loire Clos Habert) Chidaine is the Montluis producer who will: a) play a major part in bringing about the long-overdue “Chenin Shake-Up” in the United States (now that the “Riesling Renaissance” is well under way), and b) expand the minds of Vouvray and Savennières devotees. There is no truer example of off-dry Chenin Blanc in the world—bursting with fresh hay, wet wool, honey, and Normandy apple cider. A softer vintage as well, making it friendlier to the American palate. Hot Picks