The worst $700 bottle I have ever opened, really. Flush cork, excellent fill. One owner. Smelled from the decanter, subtle dark Pinot with a little bit of game and spice. Doesn't jump from the glass - you have to work for it. Peaked at 45 minutes. Always more austere on the palate than on the nose. Suggested being a great wine without being one; there were moments when you'd get a dense, dark, perfumed fruit inflected with game rising out of the decanter but it never lasted. Just glimpses, nothing more.
This time I opened the bottle 2 hours before drinking, and decanted 1 hour before drinking, and it made for a softer, richer, more complex wine. The bouquet was still characteristically farmyard and red fruit with subtle spice, but the palate was richer, denser, less "rustic". I actually rated this a notch higher than the Rousseau Chambertin of the same vintage consumed a few days earlier.
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