Now at full maturity, this wine has found its balance and is showing very well today. It is very harmonious and displays a lovely interplay between ripe yellow fruit (mirabelle), a floral note, well-integrated spicy oak and a steely core of almost salty minerality. Unmistakeably Chablis in character, this has successfully exchanged the flashiness of its youth for subtlety. Its energy, freshness and drive avoid the potential structural weakness of the ripe vintage and are a tribute to the old vines on this very privileged site adjacent to Bougros. Very good flavour intensity and length. No rush but no need to wait either.
Does not have the exotic richness of yore and there is a lack of fruit in comparison to the opulent structure, but the new, tight, minerally personality with lemon fruit becomes the wine well, with the oak slightly relegated to the background. Good length, black olive, flowers. Drink up, lacks tension and energy for longer ageing.
I am in two minds about this wine. Perfectly agreeable, fruit, oak, acidity, a nice touch of minerals, everything nicely balanced. Clearly Chablis, albeit of the round, ripe kind. But as such also a bit of a waste of space, too plausible, too engineered, disowns the athenticity of its terroir. Very good but not interesting. On the second day still good however and now I can't help being impressed by the intensity and the quality of the winemaking. But I can't get my head round the oak treatment - too close to Meursault. Drink up before the fruit vanishes.
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