This wine is so young, so primary, and so classic! I was surprised by the strength of the burnt match, but it seems (according to the interwebs) this is perfectly normal for young Prum Riesling - especially from the Sonnenuhr vineyard. Moderately sweet, light, and saffron-scented, with good varietal character and sparkling acidity.
Score: Between 8.5 and 9.
Visual: Clear, day bright, medium-straw with moderate concentration. I’m a bit surprised this was lighter in color than the Cuvee Freddy - especially since this has botrytis on it, and that usually hastens oxidation and thus deepening of color.
Nose: Light burnt match (reduction), which yields to a light (but present) tone of petrol/pool-toy (TDN). There is a slight hint of grapefruit pith (thiol character), and a moderate influence of botrytis (warm saffron and rice tones). Fruit wasn’t dominant for me.
Surprisingly youthful and moderately complex, with both varietal character and botrytis influence. The burnt match certainly evokes a sense of warm crushed stones (Terroir!). The fact that it seems to be a reductive character doesn’t change the magic of this combination. I’m becoming more and more convinced of the argument that minerality is in fact the combination of high acidy and moderated reduction.
I think this probably needs a lot of time — decades, perhaps — for the struck match aromas to subside and for secondary and tertiary aromas to develop.
Palate: Off-dry (I wrote ~15g/L, but given the ripping high acid it could be in the 30’s or 40’s). Low alcohol (not even diminished - I feel almost no alcoholic heat). ~10%? [actually 7.5%]. Solidly high acid, both malic and tartaric, though initially the acidic spark is softened by significant sweetness. No phenolic bitterness. Superb balance with sweetness lifted by strong acid. Complexity is just moderate at this point - I think it needs significant age to develop further. The finish is long, with sweetness and acidity neck-and-neck.
2nd of 18 - pale, some spritz; nuance developing, quite floral, some stone, refreshing lime; light but long and intense, super balance, refreshing fruit. dimension developing hints at much more to come early days yet. I find these wines need about 15 years before they start to develop. Should improve on current fine plus (18/20).
Professional reviews have copyrights and you can view them here for your personal use only as private content. To view pro reviews you must either subscribe to a pre-integrated publication or manually enter reviews below. Learn more.
(Joh. Jos. Prüm Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese) A clear green-tinged hue, and just like the spätlese this shows a light application of carbon dioxide bubbles around the inner surface of the glass. Unfortunately it still reeks of typical Prüm sulphur at this stage, with struck match and mothball characteristics dominating at present. I described it as a ‘faint tinge’ in 2007 but perhaps I was being kind; it certainly isn’t faint here. There is still a bright, vivacious minerality underneath it though, along with little notes of seashell and seaside ‘ozone’. Lovely weight, although it feels light-footed and gentle and harmonious. Not intensely sweet, not overtly sweeter than the spätlese in fact, although there is a beautifully fleshy polish on the palate with a very harmonious structure. Lovely vibrancy on the finish, which is fresh and long. It still needs time, this one; and it will drink well for decades I am certain.
(Joh. Jos. Prüm Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese) A pale shimmering hue, green tinged, and like the wines that preceded it there are some bubbles of residual carbon dioxide lingering here. A super nose, with a deep, limey, minerally, smoky and fresh style. There is perhaps the faintest tinge of residual sulphur here too, but it is very subtle and is of no consequence. Gorgeously fresh despite being deeply structured, plush and rich, with a great, broad character. Creamy fruit richness, precisely defined, very upright and composed, but with plenty of fleshy substance, so although this wine is in a very early stage of what should be a lengthy evolution, it is still beautifully balanced and delightfully easy to drink. But no doubt in five, ten or twenty years time, protected by the crisp, tingling and perfectly delineated acidity that it possesses, it will be a fabulous experience. A wonderful wine with huge potential.
NOTE: Some content is property of JancisRobinson.com and Mosel Fine Wines and Vinous and Winedoctor and RJonWine.com.