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JancisRobinson.com

View From the Cellar

For The Love of Port

Sommelier Journal

  • By Roy Hersh
    June 2008, (See more on Sommelier Journal...)

    (NV H.M. Borges Madeira 15 Year) This small, independent shipper, established in 1877, epitomizes the artisan producers of the island, yet is not well known in the United States. Maple-syrup color with a light amber rim. Elaborate, swirling aromas of mahogany, tangerine, sea salt, and crème anglais, enhanced by a vivacious volatile acidity that adds rather than distracts. Lots of textural pleasure here, with a cool, velvety entry. The palate is stuffed with exotic espresso, hazelnut, and apricot-marmalade flavors, plus plenty of edgy acidity to pull it all together in a medium bodied package. A memorable Malmsey, with a profound finish and multifaceted aftertaste that provides something new with each swallow. Fit to Be Fortified

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