A Matter of Taste: London Edition (Saatchi Gallery, Chelsea): Beautiful wafts of leather and forest floor on the nose, plus black cherry emerging later; tight, primary, notes of raspberry and dark fruit mingle with a complex spice palate; fruit and acidity in full balance; a clipped finish but with air I suspect it would have been even more impressive.
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(Bodegas Vega-Sicilia Ribera del Duero Único) Bricking very dark ruby color; menthol, tart black fruit, espresso, mint, black currant nose; rich, velvety textured, tart black currant, tar, coffee, raspberry puree palate; long finish 95+ points
(Vega Sicilia Unico) The 1994 Unico, a wine that has been heating up at auction recently, had an amazing nose. It had a summit-like quality of Burgundy, Spain and Bordeaux coming together for some sort of agreement about universal greatness in wine. Its violety and vitaminy fruit had great pitch; there was sexy musk and a touch of nut as well. This wine was a veritable ‘Purple Rain,’ complete with Apollonia, of course. The palate was taut and so young, so Burgundian in style. There were touches of cigar around its edges. Drinking this wine still seemed like taking a teenager on a date, so again thoughts of imprisonment for drinking a wine at too early an age crossed my mind :). The 1994 did have great verve and pitch and will be sure to climb my point ladder in time, but for now it remains at its best in the cellar, aging slowly and surely
(Vega Sicilia Unico) was crackling with minerals and had a wealth of deep, dark, purple and black fruits in its nose. Deep and rich, the 1994 came across nutty, smoky, musky and cedary all at once. The wine was both exotic and shy, and its palate was rich, satiny and super elegant with lingering acidity. Secondary aromas developed of coffee, grape and an incredibly exotic spice in a cinnamon and gingerbread direction. The tannins slowly emerged and revealed the 1994 to be a great Unico. The wine had a sweeter and richer expression of its fruit and flavors despite not being as thick as the 1996. It maintained a more delicate nature and composure. Its acidity and tannins were still tremendous, ripe, lengthy and elegant. Pablo said that 'there are two styles of Unico . elegant and robust'
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