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JancisRobinson.com

Burghound

Garagiste

  • By Jon Rimmerman
    4/8/2008, (See more on Garagiste...)

    (CAREMENTRANT Soufrandiere) Soufrandiere Dear Friends, This estate makes me nostalgic for days before their discovery. Even though the quality of the wines has never been higher, when I would visit in the “old days” (circa 2000), it was just Jean-Guillaume Bret and Jean-Philippe Bret (two kids that were like my younger brothers), chain smoking and tossing cigarette butts into or near the barrels, charring the outside with their own toast level from small tobacco embers that would brand the wood with hundreds of small brown imprint specks. In a way, they were like young artists that were about to place their stamp on the world - they just didn’t know it yet. They were free-thinking, revolutionary upstarts from the Macon that had a dream - to be not only the best producer in the Macon but to be thought of as the ONLY producer in the Macon, on a level with the great names of the Cote d’Or. Whether they were listening or not, I told them to follow their dream - don’t look back and say “what if?”, just look forward - if you let the fear of the past or failure nip at your feet, the sores will eventually force you to crawl and then slow you to a stop. The future has no scrapes and sore spots - it’s a perfect canvass. Now go out and paint it. The Bret Brothers never looked back and while I’m sure my advice had no effect on them (they probably asked everyone the same question), I can say that they have nearly achieved their above mentioned goal - Soufrandiere has become the driving force of boutique estates in the Macon and their star has yet to fully crest. These are some of the more consistently recommended white wines being produced in Burgundy, not only for their relative value but for their overall expression of site place and vintage. This set of 2006 wines is one of the best in Burgundy (not a surprise) and you will be quite pleased with any of them. All of the grapes were all hand-harvested, treated with kid-gloves and vinified with the care of Grand Cru material. Burghound: ”I said it last year but it bears repeating that the quality at this domaine/negociant operation continues to do nothing but climb.... If you're not familiar with the wines, I can't suggest strongly enough that you familiarize yourself with them.” This parcel is directly from the cellars at Soufrandiere with perfect provenance - the prices should be about the same as in France (or lower). All are HIGHLY RECOMMENDED: 2006 Domaine La Soufrandière Viré-Clessé "La Verchere" (this will be long-lived, maybe the longest of the lot) 2006 Domaine La Soufrandiere Pouilly-Vinzelles "Les Quarts" (always a personal favorite - this wine exudes class and breed - hard to top this anywhere in the Cote d’Or) ” 2006 Domaine La Soufrandiere Macon-Vinzelles "Le Clos” (de Grand-Pere) (this is another favorite and it represents a real bargain in white Burgundy. Vinified with the same deft touch as the other wines, just less expensive) 2006 Domaine La Soufrandiere Pouilly-Fuisse "La Roche" (this wine is about power and drive with terroir de Macon par excellence - impressive) 2006 Domaine La Soufrandiere Pouilly-Fuisse "Carementrant" (always a blind-tasting winner - this wine exerts itself with 2-3 years in bottle and usually leaves the competitors in the dust) Thank you, Jon Rimmerman Garagiste Seattle, WA Burg5650 Burg5660 Burg5670 Burg5680 Burg5690

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