I don't think I actually intended to cellar this, but a bottle got buried where I couldn't get to it for a long time... anyway, I wish I'd been smart enough to put away more, because it's just fantastic now and is really rewarding the time it spent sleeping. It is absolutely crystalline and cut like a jewel and features a cleansing freshness to it, but it's laced with darker tones and some of the candy-corn richness of fancy white Burgundy which gives it a level of stuffing and density that wasn't even hinted at on release. Yet overall it stays so fresh and bright that it's totally defying all stereotypes of the vintage.
Is this the QPR King of France? Here is a delicious bone-dry white to serve straight out of the ice bucket. The cold mutes the fruit and gives it a refreshing, Alpine quality that's inspiring me for the first time to use the word "schist" in a tasting note. At this point the wine is all about texture, offering the mouthfeel of a good Chablis but with a Savoyarde flavor profile. Given time to breathe and warm up, citrus fruit takes over, conveying both the acidity and the tang of fresh-squeezed lemons. Alcohol is a little stiff, given its proportions, but that's the only sign this juice saw the summer of 2003. I can't think of a better wine to buy by the case for summer days and nights this year.
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(Domaine de la Pépière (Marc Ollivier) Muscadet de Sèvre-et-Maine Sur Lie Vieilles Vignes Clos des Briords) Group's #6 (my #1) – 77 pts; 1, 1, 3, 8 - light canary yellow color; a little oxidized, creamy, almond, witch hazel and green almond nose; tasty, lime, cream, almond and mineral palate; medium finish 91+ pts.