This is such an amazing wine and this is once again a stunning bottle. Intense, almost luminescent green-golden colour; deep and powerful nose, really engages the taster, complete and complex, box-tree, grass, vegetables, flint, ripe (but not tropical) fruit, subtle hint of honey; there is immense tension and energy on the palate, with an almost salty mineral core and laser-like acidity in a constant and layered interplay with the rich but extremely precise flavours; complete finish, excellent length. At perfect peak, just that little more harmonious than last year. This is the Bâtard of the Loire. A perfect match for Elizabeth's (no less intense or elegant) spaghetti with prawns, chorizo and tomatoes.
Ce vin constitua une très belle surprise lors de sa redécouverte, après être resté 10 ans en cave ... Comment avait-il évolué? Sa couleur dorée annonce immédiatement son évolution, ce que confirme les premières effluves, très aromatiques. Le pamplemousse confit, et frais, le lys, un grillé très léger, un buis noble, du citron confit et le musc aussi se confondent en harmonie pour envoûter le nez et la bouche. Et celle ci ne déçoit pas alliant rondeur délicate, fine amertume et belle maturité, minéralité (et tension), fraîcheur et longueur. Plus le vin s'aère, plus le terroir (silex) marque son emprunte en finale, apportent une note saline qui sied bien au caractère mûr du millésime. Peut être pas aussi vibrant qu'un Pur Sang, mais tout de même très séduisant!
From a single vineyard in Saint-Satur, flint soils, vines planted in 1936, low yields, fermentation in older barriques, aged on the fine lees, fined nor filtered, bottled in accordance with the lunar cycle, a perfect 12.5% ABV. Late (2013) release. Fortunately, the wine repays all the time and effort lavished on it. Incredibly fresh at 12 years old, with lots of drive and interest. The style is less ripe than chez Cotat, with quite prominent (and very attractive) boxtree / pyrazine aromas even at this age. Harmonious and intense, with the old vines providing an almost honeyed power and creaminess, and a deep and smoky minerality from the flinty soils. A fascinating bottle. This really is Sancerre-and-a-half.
A private lunch (Restaurant Bord'eau **, Amsterdam, NL): Rich and mature colour; beautifully evolved nose, subtle and deep, piercing Silex minerality married with flowers and honey; lovely ripe and rich attack, elegant and flowing palate, mature but still with freshness and drive; good length.
From a case I bought on the strength of my previous experience. Oddly, this bottle seems different from the one in January; it is very intense, powerful and minerally, but there also is a honeyed note that makes you wonder whether some botrytis fruit was included? Excellent but not the ultimate finesse. Retaste.
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