From magnum. Worried at first with some serious funk on the nose, thankfully it blew off. This unfolded quite nicely in the glass, showing more fruit over time. Good depth, and very easy to drink. In the end, I preferred this to the '85 Voillot Rugiens, though at first it was the other way around.
From a bottle with an excellent fill and a good cork, double-decanted off its sediment about an hour or so before drinking.
You really have to like old wine to like this. There's a fair amount of that generic old-wine almost vinergary aroma, but while the wine is past its prime, it's not dead. There are still notes of dark, plummy fruit, and the wine has a sauvage, meaty character, as well as a fair bit of leather and some herbal notes. Tannins are almost totally resolved, the extract it still there and quite smooth. Very nice pairing with squab. Obviously not a great Beze, but I quite enjoyed sitting with this wine over dinner; it would have been totally lost in a larger lineup. It held up fairly well over the course of the meal.
This was the WOTN, hands down, which was a real shocker since WS rated it 84 back in 1988. Drunk blind at my 1980s-90s burgundy tasting, this wine was brickish in color and had outstanding earth notes as well as velvety cherry fruit flavors. An outstanding wine that beat out many primer and a couple of grand cru winesfrom 1989, 90, 96 and 97.
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