From a bottle with an excellent fill and a good cork, double-decanted off its sediment about an hour or so before drinking.
You really have to like old wine to like this. There's a fair amount of that generic old-wine almost vinergary aroma, but while the wine is past its prime, it's not dead. There are still notes of dark, plummy fruit, and the wine has a sauvage, meaty character, as well as a fair bit of leather and some herbal notes. Tannins are almost totally resolved, the extract it still there and quite smooth. Very nice pairing with squab. Obviously not a great Beze, but I quite enjoyed sitting with this wine over dinner; it would have been totally lost in a larger lineup. It held up fairly well over the course of the meal.
This was the WOTN, hands down, which was a real shocker since WS rated it 84 back in 1988. Drunk blind at my 1980s-90s burgundy tasting, this wine was brickish in color and had outstanding earth notes as well as velvety cherry fruit flavors. An outstanding wine that beat out many primer and a couple of grand cru winesfrom 1989, 90, 96 and 97.
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