Farewell to a delicious wine. This is my last bottle of the Kabinett (plenty of Spatlese and Auslese still waiting), and on the top of the maturity curve. It still shows a lightly cooked strawberry aroma (think jam/sauce), but is now dominated but the red slate elements of the Wurzgarten. Cinnamon red hots, dried pineapple, nutmeg and iron minerality take the focus. On the palate it is only lightly sweet, and the acidity makes for a completely dry finish. I have been following this wine for 13 years, since it's release in fall of 2002, and it has always been beautiful regardless of where it was in its aging curve. It remains beautiful now, as it gets ready to sail towards the sunset.
OMFG. I think this is the best young kabinett for me of all time, and I've had some really good ones. :) Huge and suavely subtle. Bright, laser-focused, nuanced, clean, saline, crunchy red berried fruit. Silky, deep, glycerin-imbued yet light as a feather texture. Blazing structural acidity. With limeade and cream on top. And a finish to die for. My god I love well made Riesling! Christoffels in 01 are just phenomenal - so glad I have a ton more. This will easily last a decade, and probably two, though I wouldn't want to miss this phase. Ridiculous....... (Knee buckling, supplication icon here.)
I have followed this wine since June 2002 when it was first poured at the Terry Theise portfolio tasting in NYC. I was blown away then. A lack of willpower has resulted in most of my bottles disappearing long before now. Some have been good. A couple have been excellent. Tonight marked the first time in 12 years that great came out to play again. The grace, purity, elegance and cut of that young wine reappeared, along with layers of bottle aged complexity. The flavors expand on the palate, and the finish lingers for a long, long time.
Took a bottle to Telepan. Medium gold. Multifaceted nose of creamy peach, ripe apple, lime, a bit of mature Riesling - petrol, honey, white pepper, nutmeg. Very bright, very lively. Enters creamy on the palate peach, honey, ripe apple. Acid builds and you get lime, tangerine, lime cream and spices. Sweeter and more concentrated than some Kabinetts, but the serious acid keeps it light on its feet. Real razor-like at points. Finish was inconsistent between just good and excellent - dropping off in intensity at points, but when on showing lime cream and spice. Great stuff. Nose - 5.5/6, Palate - 5.5/6, Finish - 4/6, Je Ne Sais Quoi - 1.5/2 = 16.5/20.
Professional reviews have copyrights and you can view them here for your personal use only as private content. To view pro reviews you must either subscribe to a pre-integrated publication or manually enter reviews below. Learn more.