1990 Bordeaux Dinner (Noisette, Portland, OR): The nose is heavy, showing scents of wax, quince, and applesauce, all spiced with some smoke. This wine delivers tons of complexity on the palate. Grapefruit and dragonfruit work together to provide electric flavor and structure. I don't taste red fruits, but the acidity reminds me of cranberries. Good length on the finish, and the flavors make this wine intellectually engaging. 91+
A wonderful bottle, very fresh, vibrant, intense, and just begging to be guzzled. It followed an old Clos de la Barre and a young Dujac Gevrey-Chambertin and back-heeled them both in terms of complexity, distinctiveness, and pure joyous drinkability. One could tick off a litany of descriptors - honeysuckle, orange peel, potpourri, marzipan, toasted coconut, a deep chalky salinity - but attempting to describe this wine by its integral components cannot begin to express its harmonious whole, its ageless and ineffable perfection. A singular experience.
Clear and bright, dark gold, M+ visc. Bruised apple, beeswax, orchid, wet basement, notably oxidized. M acid, touch of grip on the palate, M alc/body. Excellent complexity and length. Probably best at 50°F. 90% Viura, 10% Malvasia. Pair with milder cheeses, saffron-based seafood.
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