After a very puzzling bottle in February 2014, this is once again performing very well. It is earnest and serious rather than charming or full of finesse, but it displays admirable energy, purity and drive. Rich and spicy Rheingau Riesling character, earthy, with extra colour, bitters and individuality from the fermentation on the skins, has lost the exuberance and the expression of youth but it is complex and harmonious, well constructed, with good weight and intensity, very good length. (91) After a few hours it opens up richly to grapefruit, melon and even a hint of strawberry; it becomes less aligned with the typical style of the region but it does come together beautifully in its own, wonderful harmony. (92)
A wine with a really odd flavour profile. Hardly recognisable as Rheingau riesling in the traditional sense, with strong estery, almost beer-like notes, quite powerful bitters from the maceration on the skins and a honeyed note. Lacks fruit, charm and tension however, a bit rough. I now like this much less than I did two years ago.
Low-yielding 60 - 80 year old vines, biodynamic viticulture, 30% of the juice fermented on the skins for six weeks, twelve months in 600 litre "Halbstück" barrels, bottled unfiltered in September 2008 under screwcap, does contain sulphites. Right, that's the technical bit out of the way. Golden colour; totally different character from almost any other white wine made in Germany; excellent concentration of fruit and spices - honey melon, apricot and flowers, reminiscent of Condrieu! Deep and very energetic, lovely acidity and the tannins from the skins clearly come into the equation. Very long. Extremely engaging wine, delicious already but it will be very interesting to see how and when this finds its balance and harmony. Hard to predict a future. Drink 2014 - 2020?
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