Morey-St Denis Grand Cru Dinner (Imperial Treasure Super Peking Duck, Paragon): Very solid indeed, but this really took a good long time to get going. It was clear that we had a wine of quality from first pour, but it just seemed to lack some charm. It was only after half an hour or more in the glass when this began to show well. I must say that the nose was very nice from first pour though – rather reminiscent of Cote Rotie, it showed a complex mélange of earth and bacon and roasted spice and lots of white pepper against a backdrop of deep, dark sweet cherries. Very nice. The palate started a bit tight and lean, with pure but quite one-dimensional tones of dark cherries and blueberries wrapped around a tight, sinewy core of fine, slightly powdery tannins and good acidity. Bit by bit though, this really opened up, first showing a fine spine of earth and mineral, and then some meaty nuances, then gently compelling notes of dark berries and spice pulling away into a long finish. There was some beauty and grace here, if not quite sheer elegance of the 2001 Lucie & Auguste Lignier CdlR that we had alongside. All in all, a superbly crafted wine, but this needs time yet – 5-6 years at least I think.
Lusca with Roy Hersh (Lusca, Atlanta): Stunning. Layers of fruit, a little earthiness and spice, fine tannin and acidity that frames and focuses the complex and shifting flavors, it's a joy to experience that can't be given justice by mere words, or at least by mine.
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