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Mosel Fine Wines


  • By Jon Rimmerman
    7/7/2009, (See more on Garagiste...)

    (BERN-BADST Kabinett JJ PRUM) 2008 JJ Prum

    Dear Friends,

    Held to the highest standard, the portfolio from JJ Prum must over-deliver in every vintage - I am happy to report, the low pradikat 2008's are among the finest wines Manfred Prum has produced since the 2001's.

    In a nutshell, the 2008 vintage is one for lovers of Kabinett and Spatlese. Auslese exists but it was not easy going at the high sugar levels. The vintage shines a very bright light on Kabinett (as it did in 2007) but the 2008's are more taut and nervous than the 2007's, without the slightly dreamy quality to the best 2007 wines. 2008 is a vintage that will be preferred by classicists and terroir lovers as each vineyard really shows itself all the way to the trocken and GG wines. If you are a fan of 2001, 2004 and 2007 White Burgundy, the 2008 Mosel vintage shows a similar transparent hand with a deceptive streak of brute power woven through the nervous middle.

    Where 2005 and 2006 are for lovers of Auslese and above, 2007 and 2008 have provided the type of Riesling that Mosel lovers have been waiting patiently for - rocky, citric and shimmering with a palate cleansing property that is the true essence of German Riesling. Vintners such as Olivier Haag and Johannes Selbach let out a big sigh of relief when discussing 2008 - the common phrase is something like "It's about time!"

    Normally, we would focus on the JJ Prum Spatlese and Auslese but not in 2008. While the 2008 Spatlese wines are fabulous from this house, the entire range of Kabinett steals the show and all are well worth your exploration (and then some). While not inexpensive, compared to Donnhoff and other producers that have crept up in price, I am quite confident in making a very strong recommendation with all three wines below. Ideally, it would be best to compare all three in a side-by-side situation but each will certainly sparkle on its own.


    2008 JJ Prum Bernkasteler Badstube Riesling Kabinett

    2008 JJ Prum Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Kabinett

    2008 JJ Prum Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Kabinett

    Thank you,

    Jon Rimmerman
    Seattle, WA


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