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(Rosenblum Zinfandel Rockpile Road) It’s interesting to compare Rosenblum’s more customary fat, ultraripe reds with its bottlings from this high-elevation AVA, which are structurally firmer, well toned, and less outwardly sweet. The ’07 delivers a blast of blackberry jam in a liqueur-like nose; on the palate, the wine really kicks in with full, velvety, glycerol-textured flavors: long, fluid, and floating like a cork on water. Appellation: Rockpile
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