Clos Saron and Renaissance with Gideon Bienstock (Trestle on Tenth): A blend of sauvignon blanc, viognier, and chardonnay, made in a deliberately oxidative style in open-top vessels with virtually no sulfur. The reason Gideon brought an older vintage to pour next to the 2007 was to demonstrate an unusual property of wines made with this method: the 2007 tastes oxidized, but the 2002 does not. The '02 is brighter, freshier, and zippy, freshened still further by a chalky minerality. I was amazed how a wine that tastes like the former could transform into the latter, when a wine like Lopez de Heredia's white Rioja retains an oxidative taste its whole life. Gideon says it reflects the difference between a wine with the patina of oxidation and a wine oxidized to its core.
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